Saturday, December 29, 2012

A Year in Review: BurdaStyle Magazine 2012

As my blog fans well know, one of my biggest sewing obsessions is BurdaStyle magazine.  Each month I have been picking a best and worst pattern, and finally it is time to crown the overall winners for 2012.  Like last year, I will be choosing a best and worst individual pattern (nominees are the best/worst from each respective issue) and also my picks for the best and worst overall magazines for the year.  For a recap from each issue, here are links to all my individual reviews:


And here is a look at the nominees for best pattern of the year:

01-2012-114 - Silver Sequin Dress
02-2012-117 - Knit Puzzel Piece Dress
03-2012-115 - Detailed Blue Jacket
04-2012-147 - Draped Silk Dress
05-2012-112 - Ruched Knit Dress
06-2012-121 - Lightweight Linen Jacket
07-2012-133 - Retro Dress
08-2012-102 - Fitted Sheath Dress
09-2012-103 - Classic Trench Coat
10-2012-128 - Pretty Pleated Dress
11-2012-118 - Trench Coat with Pipping
12-2012-112

And here are the nominees for worst pattern:

01-2012-121 - Star Trek Uniform Top
02-2012-114 - Hideous Rumple Waisted Trousers
03-2012-124 - Vest of Nonsensical Pocket Placement
04-2012-109 - Ugly Romper Playsuit Thing
05-2012-101 - Ugly Sack Dress of Boring
06-2012-120 - Crazy Fringe Leather Vest
07-2012-123 - The Scrap of Fabric Boob Binder
08-2012-141 - Bunchie Undies
09-2012-140 - Dirndl Style Skirt
10-2012-120 - Hip Warmer
11-2012-103 - Dirty Shag Carpet Vest
12-2012-135 - Poofy Sleeved Vest

Clearly, this was the year of the dress!  Predictably, many of my top picks were coats and jackets (I have a weakness and I admit it), but the remaining top choices were all dresses (which is funny considering how rarely I wear them).  There were so many good dress patterns this year, it will be difficult to choose a top three.  But here it goes anyway.

Honorable Mention:

First, I want to give a special Honorable Mention award to the twist-top dress from the March issue.

03-2012-108
In hindsight, this probably should have been my choice for Best of BS from March of this year.  There have been many fabulous versions of this dress popping up on various blogs over the year, and I even made a version of this dress myself.  In fact it was so tempting I made the dress before the month of March was even halfway finished!  I really liked the result and have fabric for future versions.  So, while this pattern is not eligible for the end-of-the-year awards (due to my self-imposed rule that I can only chose patterns from the Best/Worst picks of each month), I wanted to give it a special Honorable Mention in my recap for the Burda review for 2012.

Second Runner Up:

November Trench Coat!
This is the epitome of the classic trench coat.  The pipping details add extra interest, but could easily be left off for a very streamlined, classic look.  Sleeve, shoulder, and flap details can be easily removed or changed to produce an ideal coat for the seamstress.  Fabric choice could yield the ultimate classic trench, or produce a fun trendy coat.  This is a timeless pattern that could easily be made and worn for years to come.

First Runner Up:

February Dress!
This dress has been very popular with sewing bloggers this year, and has seem more than a few great versions pop up on various sites.  Most versions utilize one of the year's biggest trends - color blocking - to create unique and innovative designs.  However, using a monochromatic fabric palate could produce an interesting and versatile dress that will be wearable for many years to come.  The popularity, versatility, and innovative design definitely make this one of the top designs of the year.

Best of BS 2012:

Gold December Dress!
Let's face it - we have been collectively swooning over this dress since the preview came out.  It is the perfect holiday dress - modest but fun, elegant and simple, with just enough detail to be interesting.  Since it is from the most recent Burda, there haven't been many versions as of yet, but I expect this dress will be very popular in the coming year.

And now for the worst patterns of the year.  This was even more challenging than selecting the top patterns - Burda presented us with some real doozies this year.  However, after reviewing the options I have narrowed it down somewhat and present the worst Burda patterns of 2012.

Second Runner Up

June's Fringe Vest
This vest has nothing going for it - the shape is awkward, the fabric is terrible, and the fringe is downright cheesy.  It would even look tacky as part of a cowgirl Halloween costume.  There is nothing fashionable or chic about this.  Simply terrible.

First Runner Up

August Vintage Undies
Can you say wedgie?  While I do very much enjoy the new "Vintage Burda" pattern feature in the magazines, this particular pattern seems rather a waste of the feature.  I mean, the fabric choice for the top is a bit tragic, but the real problem is the drawers - they are so ridiculously bunchy!  There is no way they could be worn with modern clothing - they would create the worst panty lines imaginable.  I suppose if you wanted to do an historically accurate retro costume I could perhaps understand the usage of this pattern, but it looks like it would incredibly uncomfortable to wear.  I'll stick to my lycra-including modern undergarments, thanks.

BWTF Award for 2012:

July Boob Binder!
First of all, a strip of fabric barely qualifies as a pattern.  Secondly, it doesn't provide nearly enough coverage or support for the rather slender model, so I shudder to think how it would look on anyone with even a remotely sizable bust.  Thirdly, it is paired with the "exploding crotch" shorts, which, I suppose, was meant to distract from the fact that the top is barely functional.  Now, instead of having one of those crazy dreams where you are naked and people are staring at you, I will be dreaming that I am wearing this outfit.  Yes, this look is, in fact, giving me nightmares.  Clearly it is the most offensively bad pattern for 2012.

And now, as a final recap of the year, let's take a look at which months provided the best and worst fashions as a whole.

Let's start with the least inspiring issues of the year.

Second Runner Up:

January
The January issue is always in danger of being one of the worst - with a large section dedicated to what are usually terribly bad costumes, it is at a distinct disadvantage.  This year the costume selection wasn't horrible, but it wasn't terribly inspiring either.  Though it isn't really the costumes that propel this issue to the bottom, but the other lackluster selections from this magazine.  While the lingerie features always have the potential to be useful, they don't often inspire much in terms of creativity or innovative design.  The party looks were ok, but after last year's December issue they seem rather tired and boring. The remaining looks were largely forgettable, and even my choices for Best/Worst pattern aren't very awe inspiring.  While there were a few good looks (the ruffle collared cardigan and the wrap top come to mind), they weren't exciting enough to overcome the overall sense of boredom one gets looking through this issue.  It is almost like Burda put so much effort into the holiday issues from last year they they were creatively exhausted by the time January rolled around.

First Runner Up:

April
The April issue is perhaps the most boring of the year.  The designs fall a bit flat - they show trends that were utilized in the earlier February issue, but don't really push the envelope stylistically.  Even more disappointing was the fact that, overwhelmingly, most of the reviews I have seen of patterns made from this issue aren't entirely thrilled with the results.  The designer dress seemed to be a favorite of many Burda lovers (myself included), but most of the made up versions aren't entirely happy with the excessive volume of this dress.  Other reviews indicate that many of the other patterns that play with sleeve volume and proportion aren't quite as flattering as they had hoped.  Not to mention - this is the issue with the romper patterns.  Flowery, fruity romper patterns.  Ick.  The end result is one of the least memorable issues of the year.

Worst BurdaStyle Magazine of 2012:

July
This was definitely the least inspiring issue of the year.  With a large selection of the patterns being constructed of scarves, there was little innovation in pattern drafting or styling.  While I appreciate that it is difficult to simultaneously have interesting clothes that are also easy breezy beach wear, the scarf section really felt like wasted space.  The remaining clothes were boring and shapeless, with only a few exceptions (in the Plus section and the Vintage pattern).  Overall there wasn't much to get excited about, and in fact most of the patterns from July are unflattering or even somewhat ugly.  On top of all of that this issue contained my pick for the Worst Pattern of the Year.  Definitely the worst issue overall for 2012.

Now that we have looked at the duds, let's celebrate the excellent issue from 2012 - and some great issues they were too.  The first half of the year was a bit slow, but things definitely picked up in later months.  I would argue that all of the issues from August - December offer some fabulous patterns, and I am very excited to have all of these issues in my collection.

Second Runner Up:

September
This issue contained a wonderful mix of fall fashions.  The styling was sharp, and the selection of patterns could be appealing to seamstresses with many different stylistic preferences.  There was a great edgy modern collection, a collection of crisp classics, and a fun mod-inspired section as well.  Even the plus section offered some great outerwear in addition to costume-y dirndls.  This issue is great because everything in it is so wearable, even though Burda went a bit extreme (in a good way) with their styling.  There have been tons of reviews for patterns from this issue, and so far everyone is quite pleased with their results.  I have made a few of the tops from this issue, but there are plenty of other patterns I can't wait to try, and I expect that many people will be making things from this issue for years to come.

First Runner Up:

August
This was something of a sleeper issue for me - while I initially liked many of the patterns in this issue, I have found that I find even more of them appealing to me as time goes on.  This issue did a fabulous job of giving us trendy patterns (peplums, oh my!) while still making the patterns versatile (surprise - it's not a dress!).  There was something for everyone, and I feel like the styling and designs were actually inspiring instead of merely just existing for the sake of showing off the pattern.  This felt like an actual fashion magazine, and for me was a real turning point in the year for Burda's designs and styles.  The finished projects from this issue look to have been real winners, and this is another issue that I think Burda fans will treasure for years to come.

Best BurdaStyle Magazine of 2012:

December!
When I first saw the early preview for this issue I was dreading what the magazine had in store.  Luckily, Burda readers were in for a great surprise - this is a FABULOUS issue.  It has a little bit of everything - quick to sew party looks, elegant evening gowns, classy coats, and colorful casual wear.  Honestly, there are so many patterns I want to make from this issue I barely know where to begin.  It features many of the trends of 2012 (color blocking, metallics, etc.) but in a restrained and elegant way.  Many of the patterns are incredibly versatile - fabric choice could make them an every-day staple or an elegant special occasion piece.  Responses from my readers and on other sewing blogs indicate that this is probably everyone's favorite issue of the year.  I treasure all of my Burda magazines, but this is up there with some of my all-time favorites.  Burda definitely outdid itself with this one.  It is unquestionably the ultimate issue for 2012.

So, there we have it - the BurdaStyle 2012 recap!  Overall I have to say it was a pretty good year for Burda - especially in the later months.  Most issues had at least a few good patterns though, and I have a lot of patterns in my sewing plans for the new year.  So what do you all think?  Was this a good Burda year or a bad Burda year?  Which issues were your favorites?  Which were the stand-out patterns?  Are any of the 2012 Burda patterns in your sewing plans for the coming year?  Feel free to discuss in the comments!

Friday, December 28, 2012

Newsflash: Burda February Early Preview Posted

The early preview for the February 2013 Burda Style magazine has been posted - you can see it on the German website or the Russian website.

So far it looks slightly more interesting than January.  I haven't seen any wow looks in the preview so far, but there is a bit of potential, so I think I am going to reserve judgement until the line drawings come out.  I will say that the photos make it feels a bit more like a "fashion" magazine that the previous issue.  There are a lot of looks I probably won't want to sew, but I actually find visually appealing in the images.  So I will wait to pass judgement.  But we can take a look at what has shown up so far anyway:

While I find this section interesting and well styled, and I look forward to seeing more,
I don't think the styles will be flattering to me, so I probably won't be sewing them.

Print mixing...  I do sort of like that jacket.

The dress is fairly basic, but I sort of like it.

Hmmm...  I think we all need boucle dresses now.
Maybe without pockets though.

The knit top is pretty basic, but I like it and I hope it is an included pattern.
Also, those shoes, what?  I mean, I like the shoes, but not with the rest of that outfit.

Another knit top I rather like.
The plus section looks like it is going to be full of drool-worthy wedding looks.  So much pretty!

I LOVE this top.  I hope it also shows up as a dress...

I love this coat!  Beautiful...

This would be a great dress, even if it wasn't for a wedding.
And, of course, it also has a lot of children's communion looks (every February, without fail).  So, all in all, so far I have to say it is a much better collection than January.  But I don't think there is quite enough yet to tell if it is going to be a great issue of merely ok.  I am looking forward to the full preview with the line drawings.  What do you all think?  Are you going to join me in cautious optimism?  Or does it look like a mish-mash of rehashed patterns from the past year?  Anything you are excited about yet?

A Year in Review: Skating Accomplishments 2012

Last year I had a great year in skating, and this year was as good if not better!  It has been a little over a year at our new skating club, and it has proven to be delightful.  I feel like I have a lot more friends in skating than I ever have before, and there is a lot of genuine support and camaraderie among the skaters that was missing before the move.  It is a much happier environment to skate in, and I think that has been helpful in pushing forward with my skating goals despite setbacks of injuries and illness throughout the year.

As far as RSA Testing goes, this year I have passed:

#14 American Solo Dance
#14 American Team Dance
#6 Loop Figures
#7-8 International Solo Dance

Passing the 14th American dance tests was a major accomplishment for me, since that Pacifica Foxtrot has been kicking my butt for the past few years.  But it has been vanquished!  My lower back couldn't be happier.

In terms of competitive goals:

* I was able to compete at local, invitational, and state games.  More competitive experience is always good.

* Despite having a knee injury, I managed to qualify for nationals in all of my events, and I finally managed to place in events that I have been skating for (many many) years.  My performances were not quite what I had hoped they would be, but it was exciting to finally achieve something I had been working towards for many years, and I finally feel like I can move on to more challenging events.

* I had a fairly good nationals.  I did manage to get a third place in team dance with my partner, and I got fourth place in three other events, which is a significant improvement over years past where I had either barely qualified or not qualified at all.  Though I wish I had been able to skate just a little bit better and maybe made the podium, overall I had a great time at nationals and I feel like I have made a significant improvement over performances in previous years.

And as far as judging goes:

* I managed to get my #3 Freestyle and #2 International Dance commissions.  This means I can now judge almost any artistic skating test, except, of course, the Gold Medal tests.  That is something to work for in the coming years.

* I judged my first invitational and first regional meets.  It was fun and exciting to be able to participate in skating on the other side of the clipboard, and I hope I can do more judging in the future.

So, all in all, a great year!  I think I managed to hit most of my skating goals from last year, and I am looking ahead to next year:

* I want to work towards my Gold Medal tests for American and International Dance, as well as my Loop figures.  Again, I don't know if it will happen this year, but now that I have passed most of the tests leading up to them I want to focus on passing the remaining tests or at least working on improving my skills to where I can pass them in the relatively near future.

* I want to continue to work on improving my overall knowledge so that I can be a better judge and maybe eventually work on higher level commissions.  At this point that means a lot of book work and studying.

* I want to read more books about the history of skating.  In some ways knowing how or why things came to be help them make more sense.  That, and I am a total nerd.

* I want to continue to add skating information posts on the blog.  I want to cover more dances and highlight more excellent skating videos.

And that's it!  As far as competition goes, a lot of things will be changing this year, so I don't want to make too many goals or plans in that area.  I am looking at this as a building or training year, where I am hoping to get a stronger more sure footed style to my skating, as well as improving overall technique.  So far I feel like I have been improving since nationals, and so I am hoping this can continue for the next year to help me become a better skater.

Thursday, December 27, 2012

End of the Year: Reading Round Up 2012

Last year I did a week of end of the year recap posts, looking back at what I had accomplished, and what I hoped to accomplish in the coming year.  I think it is fun to go back and look at these posts and also helps put they year into perspective.  I thought I would do the same for this year, though I don't think I am going to do another Stash Stats post - at this point I have so many fabrics and patterns (mostly due to my ever growing pattern magazine collection) that I don't even want to bother looking at the numbers (too frightening).  I do have a relatively decent storage and catalog system, and right now just managing the stash is enough for me.

I will do a more in-depth year-end sewing review later; today I want to focus on a year-end review of the books and reading goals I have accomplished.  Last year my reading was mostly focused on sewing-related books about technique and construction.  This year I didn't manage to read many sewing books at all, though I did read Tim Gunn's books about fashion and style.  Those were related to my sewing challenge though, so it is somewhat understandable that they jumped to the top of the queue.  I read a more varied mix of fiction and non-fiction this year, and really enjoyed most of the books I finished.  Roller Skating for Gold was surprisingly straightforward, informative, and candid, and it is a stand-out in terms of the roller skating history books I have read.  Lost at the Con and Legion were also surprise favorites in the world of fiction.

In terms of quantity, I didn't do much better than the 12 books I read last year, only managing 12 this year.  It seems that a book a month is about my going rate, though I know that most of my reading happens at the beginning of the year, and at the end.  Summer skating commitments squash out a lot of free reading time it seems.  Though the mad rush to finish graduate school work sort of curtailed the year-end reading a bit as well.  Ah, well.  You can look at the list of books I have read since starting this blog, with links to book reviews here.

As far as next year goes, I hope to be able to keep up at least a similar pace with a book a month.  I am a bit sad that I didn't manage to finish a lot of sewing books this year, so I think one of my goals for next year is to read at least a few books on sewing technique or more about fashion and sewing history.  Of course, that will have to wait until after A Memory of Light comes out (counting down the days you guys, counting down the days), and I also plan to read A Dance With Dragons when it comes out in paperback.  After that I will have to peruse my personal library (no, I don't just stash patterns) and find more fantasy stories to read.  Oh, and I want to read more non-fiction and possibly some more books about the history of roller skating if I can find the time.  Sigh.  So many books so little time.

Tuesday, December 18, 2012

Newsflash: New Simplicity Patterns Announced!

Firstly, I want to thank all of my lovely readers for the nice comments on my previous post!  I was great to hear from you all and I really appreciated all of your warm words.

In the meantime, it seems that Simplicity has released their latest collection of new patterns.  Overall I think this is an average collection.  There isn't really anything so fabulous I am dying to make it... actually most of the patterns are kind of boring.  But there are a few I might add to my wish list.  Aside from the kids clothes and crafty projects, there were quite a few Project Runway and Project Runway contestant patterns:

S1687 - Project Runway Color Blocking Pocket Dress
Sort of meh...  Is it me, or are all of the Project Runway patterns starting to look alike?

S1689 - Leanne Marshall fancy dress.
I actually quite like this design, especially on the shorter version.

S1690 - Another Leanne Marshall design.
All of her patterns seem to extend from her winning
"petal wave" designs from the show.

S1691 - A Suede Says design.
The pattern is ok, but not really interesting enough for me to want to get it.

Simplicity also has one Retro pattern this release...

S1692 - A 1940s vintage top pattern.
And then there were a lot of "trendy" patterns - hi-lo hems and peplums being the Simplicity approved trends for the new year:

S1699 - Wardrobe pattern with peplum top.

S1697 - Skirt pattern with peplums and hi-lo hems.
(Actually, I like view E the best, but already have a similar pattern.)

S1694 - Baggy hi-lo tops.

S1695 - Hi-Lo hem - Extreme Edition.
Finally, there were a few nice sheath dress patterns:

S1686 - An amazing fit pattern.

S1688 - A Cynthia Rowley design.
My favorite!  This is the one must-buy pattern for me in this release.
There were, of course, other patterns, but not too much to remark on.  Overall it is an ok release - a few good patterns, but not a lot that feels extremely remarkable.  I don't know.  It seems that since I have found Burda, I am less inclined to be excited by the Big4 envelope patterns because I usually already have something similar in one of the magazines.  What do you all think?  Is there anything in this release you are dying to make?  Do you find that having a Burda subscription makes "trendy" patterns less appealing?  Am I the only one who is finding all of the first releases for 2013 to be a bit disappointing?  Discuss in the comments!

Friday, December 14, 2012

That's Dr. SewSkateRead, Thank You Very Much

Ok you guys, the Big Scary Thing I had to do... it is done.  And now I am a doctor.  But not that kind of a doctor.  More of a Dr. Indiana Jones kind of doctor, and less of a Dr. House kind of doctor.  Except with more computers and fewer interactions with Nazis.  Anyway, the good news is that now I won't have quite so much distracting me from sewing (like, you know, that whole pesky dissertation thing).  Oh, and I can legitimately wear a shirt like this:

I went to grad school and all I got was this lousy title...
On the other hand that mirky and unpredictable thing called "the future" has firmly planted itself in front of me and I am left wondering what exactly I am going to do about it.  I mean, I have some ideas, but no definite plans.  Which the me from 5 years ago would have been freaking out about.  I mean serious panic attack territory.  Me now?  I will deal with it.  And it will be fine.

In the mean time I have to deal with some serious stash relocation, which will cut into my actual sewing time, but I still hope to have a few more finished projects before the end of the year (jackets, yay).  I also expect to be sewing more skating costumes soon (though mostly for other people... the orders, they are already coming in), and I will finally be able to finish writing the skating costume tutorials for you guys (the drafts for the first few parts have been sitting around for a few months... as have my cut out but as yet un-sewn leotard pieces).  And maybe I can get a book or two read as well.

So, ummm, yeah.  I have a PhD.  I suppose I should feel different, but I don't.  I mean, I can see how I have changed over the course of grad school.  And I can see how what I expected my life was going to be has changed.  But getting the actual degree, I don't feel different.  Mostly I just feel tired.  Tired, and ready to move on.

Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Newsflash: New McCall's Patterns Announced

McCall's has posted their latest line of pattern offerings.  My overall impression: meh.  It looks a lot like the last line.  McCall's is obviously trying to be the young, hip, and cool pattern company in the BMV(K) line-up.  But mostly it looks like the designs are either very poofy tops, color blocked boring dresses, or for kids.  And what is up with that bike in all the photos?  Really, with the evening gown?  What?

Anyway, there isn't a whole lot of interest, but there were a few gems hidden in the mix:

M6701 - I like the way this skirt hangs.

M6703 - This top could look cool, but I think it just looks too big.  I am planning on making an XS.


M6708 - This is a nice cardigan pattern.
I especially love view C.  I think this is going on my list.


M6713 - My favorite!  
Yes, this pattern is totally a hidden gem in the collection.  I love all of these options!

M6699 - A simple but nice sheath dress.
Otherwise it looked to be a lot more color blocking:

M6706 - Color blocking on skirts

M6705 - Color blocking on tops

M6697 - Color blocking on dresses

M6707 - Color blocking on pants
There were a few other patterns that were ok...

M6709 - Simple raglan sleeve jacket

M6711 - Ok wardrobe pattern.

Good selection of basics.
Otherwise, most of the patterns were of the shapeless baggy sort, or they were for crafts of children.  Yeah, most of them look something like:

M6704 - Look at my wings I can FLY!
Sorry... the bike theme is just... too much.
So... what do you all think?  Not quite so boring as the Burdas that popped up yesterday, but not terribly exciting either.  Once again I feel like I am seeing regurgitation of the same patterns.  Boring.  What do you all think?  Anything here you can't live without?  Did I miss something good in the preview?  Or are we all going to be stash-sewing for the next few months?  Feel free to discuss!