Newsflash: March Burda Preview Announced!

The Russian Burda has posted the preview of the March issue!  All in all...  I am not quite as excited as I was for February.  There are a few patterns I am excited about adding to my collection, but I don't know that there is anything I am going to make up right away.  A lackluster collection of wedding gowns and a bunch of casual pieces that were a bit boring to mention look to fill much of this issue.  In any case, let's take a look...

I am just going to cut to the chase and show some of my favorite pieces up front:

Jacket love!  The seam details are fantastic.

I am imagining this in a rich chocolate leather... Yum.

I love this suit jacket - classy and elegant.

I am always a fan of extra fitting darts on jacket patterns.

Similar, but a bit longer with different pockets.

I really like the collar on this longer version.

I want one!  Or more than one...  Perhaps in my Missoni knits?
Or maybe I need to find some bright stretch lace...

I love that this has great waist shaping.

The skirt is quite basic, but I love the lace overlay.
Yup, I need a lace skirt.

Not a fan of the seam coverings, but the basic shape is quite versatile.

I am on the fence about this dress...

Perhaps it is a bit too young and cute for me?

But I do like the way it looks on the model...

I am a fan of this halter dress though.

I love the gathers on the bodice....

Though, based on the model photo, I will need to raise the bust substantially.

Very simple dress, but nice and classy.

The way the sleeves are draped is quite interesting.

Basic cowl neck top, but when have I ever turned one of those down?

This crop of wedding gowns seems to be very simple and linear.  Whereas last year's dresses were clearly inspired by the royal wedding, it seems like the styles this year were more inspired by the 1920s style wedding gowns from the most recent season of Downton Abbey:

A rectangle with capped sleeves...
This dress really seems to display the 1920s vibe I am getting from this section.

A very basic dress, but it could be quite nice for a relaxed garden wedding.

I am not really a fan of this bridesmaid dress... I think the placement of the
ruched satin is off just enough to be distracting.  And the fabric seems a bit juvenile.

Also... look at the model expressions.  The bride looks like she is doing a
drunken seductive veil dance and the bridesmaid is like, "What the...?"

The front is ok... But the back looks it is part of an apron.
I am not a fan of the multi-layer skirt either.

This dress is fine, but not anything super exciting.

Another basic dress, but I like the classic look of this gown.

The pleats give a nice fullness to the back of the skirt.

This issue doesn't look to have a designer pattern, but it does feature a vintage re-release:

I don't know that I would wear this style, but I appreciate the lace details.

The BurdaPlus patterns aren't terribly exciting, but the black and white color scheme does have a nice graphic quality in the model photos:

I like the jacket, but I don't know that I am a fan of the stripe on the pants.

I do rather like the draping on this skirt as well.

Of course, as always, there are those patterns that are a bit lacking in design and style:

Similar to the wedding dress... I like the front, but the back seems terribly
impractical, especially before the warm summer months show up.

I still think the back looks like an apron...

Before I was wondering what the front looked like...
Now I realize the model is holding up the dress
because there isn't a back to hold it up for her.

Empty sack parka.

Seriously, could a person even raise their arms in this?

Million pocket pants...  Seriously though, who needs to make their hips look wider than they actually are?

And that's that!  There were a lot of basics that I am sure could be quite good wardrobe builders, but not exciting enough to mention in the monthly review.  Which means it is time once again for the Best and Worst picks of the month.  This month I think the Best of BS award is quite obvious:

Stylish detailed jacket.

This pattern has the perfect mix of classic elements, interesting detail, and versatile look.  Done up in a nice quality leather this could be perfection.  Though I do have to give honorable mention to this ensemble:

I want the sweater and the skirt!  Seriously, I would wear this entire outfit.

And, similarly, the BWTF award for the worst pattern of March quite obviously goes to:

Potato sack parka!

Sloppy, sloppy, sloppy.  The skirt and shoes don't help convince me of the fashionable-ness of this jacket either.

And there we have it - March Burda!  I have to admit I am smitten with the jacket, and I will definitely want to make up the cardigan sooner rather than later.  But, well, all in all this is sort of a meh issue for me.  What do you all think?  Are you swooning over spring dresses?  Or are you going to spend March sewing up all of the fantastic patterns from February?  Did I miss anything exciting?  Feel free to discuss this issue in the comments!

Pattern Review: BS-12-2012-139

I have been doing more sewing - of the non-year-long-challenge related variety!  Though I think this "fills a need" in my basic wardrobe and it was clearing out the stash... so I am ok with that.  Since I spent a lot of the end of last year not sewing, I have been wanting to get back into it slowly with a few low-stakes projects that I wouldn't be mourning if they didn't turn out too well.  Also, it has been pretty cold, so a fleece jacket sounded like a good idea.  I tried to make a fleece jacket last year, but I wasn't too happy with the results (I think I wore it once, then I gave it to my sister.  The fit/style are much better suited to her than they were to me.)  This is a much more casual style jacket, which is a much better fit for the fleece fabric I think.  I'll spoil the ending for you all now - this one is a keeper.

BS-12-2012-139 - Short Hoodie Jacket

Originally I wanted to make the longer version (style 140), but my sister convinced me that the shorter one would be more versatile and practical (she was right).  I really like the way it turned out:

The new hoodie!

My sister was able to act as my photographer...

Clearly, we were having too much fun.

The hood is super huge - perfect for looking like an evil emperor.

Actually, I really like shape of it as it is easy to position for coverage and visibility.
I also really like that the collar covers my neck.

A look at the back.  Instead of exposed seam allowances I used a lot of top-stitching.
Next time I will scoop out the center back a bit to fix the mild swayback problem.

I used some pre-packaged bias binding to cover the zipper
on the inside and to finish of the sleeve  cuff hems.

Here is my official Pattern Review:

Pattern Description:  Short zip-up hoodie jacket with pockets, zipper hood, rolled cuffs, and exposed seam allowances.  I left off or changed a lot of the details in my version (see Alterations section below).

Pattern Sizing:  Burda sizes 36-44.  I traced at 38 at the neck opening, a 40 for the shoulders through the waist, and graded out to a 42 at the back hips and on the sleeves.  I used to trace pretty much a straight 40, but I am finding that when I am more liberal with using multiple sizes in key areas of my body I get an even better fit with very few alterations.  Something I will be experimenting with more in the future, I am sure.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Ummmm, I hate to be one of those people... But I didn't use them too much.  I have sewn enough jackets by this point that I didn't really need them, though I did look at them and follow the general construction order.  I changed a lot of the details, though, so I sort of ignored large section of the instructions.  What I did read seemed to be fairly logical, but I didn't get too in depth.

Did it look like the photo/drawing when you were done with it?  Yes, pretty much.  The design changes I made aren't noticeably different from what is in the photo/drawing, so it looks pretty close.

What did you particularly like or dislike about this pattern?  I think I liked pretty much everything.  The style, the fit, it was easy to make, the drafting was superb.  I have never had sleeves set in so easily before!  I like that the zipper/hood covers the neck area (so many of my jackets don't and if you don't have a scarf it gets really cold), and my sister commented that it was nice to see a jacket with such a large hood, since so many RTW jackets for girls have tiny hoods that don't cover much of the head.  Also, by having such a large hood it helps it lie nicely when it is worn down on the back.  My only dislikes were the zipper in the hood (I imagine it getting caught in my hair) and the exposed seam allowances, so I left those off.

Fabric used:  I used a poly fleece from Jo-Ann fabrics (bought at a Black Friday sale, so this was a really cheap jacket to make).  Not as classy or high-end as Burda's fulled loden, but I think it will get the job done.

Pattern alterations or designs changes you made:  I left off the zipper that was supposed to be included in the separating hood (I just made a regular hood), and I left the seam allowances inside the jacket, instead of having them exposed.  I top-stitched the allowances down, so it still has the same design lines, without looking like I am wearing it inside out.

Would you sew this again?  Would you recommend it to others?  I would consider sewing this again.  I need to make a slight swayback adjustment (not difficult because of the center back seam), but the fit is good and I like the style.  I don't think I need a rainbow of fleece hoodies, but when the green one gets too worn I would consider making another one.  I would recommend this pattern to others who want to make a nice casual jacket - the drafting is great and the style is pretty nice.

Conclusion:  I am really happy with my jacket!  It is warm and cozy, casual, and it wasn't too difficult to make.  I think the style is great for an exercise/warm up jacket, or for running errands on a chilly day.  I have already grabbed it as my go-to jacket twice in three days, so I think it will see a lot of use in the coming months.

So that's my jacket!  In honor of it's Kermit The Frog color, I have dubbed it the "It's Not Easy Being Green" jacket.  Hmmm... it seems I tend to make my outer wear in cartoon colors as this will be joining my "Smurf Raincoat" in my list of clothes that are commonly referred to by characters from children's television shows.  Well, I have never really been afraid of color, so, umm, I guess that is ok?

Speaking of not fearing color - my next project review will be my first foray into the trend of color blocking!  I don't know if the resulting project is really "my style" but I am glad I went ahead with the experiment.  Unfortunately my stupid flu/cold/nonsense took a turn for the worse (ok having a weird Organ Trail II deja vu flashback moment there... and, yeah, that reference is very generational), so I haven't felt much like doing another photo shoot.  So the sewing is still happening (at a somewhat reduced pace), but the reviews probably won't be popping up for a while yet.

Pattern Review: Simplicity 1716

This should really be titled "Stripes Two Ways - Part II."  I was looking at my teal striped knit and I couldn't really decide which pattern I wanted to use.  So rather than make a choice I ended up making two different tops - one from Burda Style Magazine, and another from Simplicity 1716:

S1716 - I made view E (white drawing)

I was torn between making an oversized top or a drapey cowl neck, so I decided to make one of each.  The oversized Burda top is maybe a bit more fitted than expected (but I like it that way), and this one is perhaps a bit more drapey.  But that is ok too!  I am really happy with the fit on this top, and I am in love with the sleeves:

Striped flutter sleeve top!

Center back seam for the win!
(Yes, there is a center back seam - it is fantastic for hiding the swaybackedness.)

Underside of the lazy man's narrow hem - serge, flip, stitch.  Neat and easy.

Pleats are used to create the cowl shape.  Not entirely sure
how I feel about the placement of the one at the bust though...
It either seems to sit too high or too low and creates pull lines
or bagginess under the bust.

Here is my official pattern review:

Pattern Description:  Knit top pattern with neckline, sleeve, and length options.  I made view E - a draped cowl neck in a tunic length with flutter sleeves.

Pattern Sizing:  Simplicity sizes (4-6-8-10-12) and (12-14-16-18-20).  I made a size 12 grading out to a size 14 over the hips.  I chose the size based on the full bust finished garment measurements given in the pattern envelope.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes, I thought so.  The instructions even mention using binding to prevent the shoulder seams from stretching out and provide lots of clear illustrations.  You do have to bounce back to find instructions for how to insert the sleeves but I don't think was particularly confusing.  Overall it was very straightforward.

Did it look like the photo/drawing when you were done with it?  Yes, I thought the top looked very similar to the line drawing.  It looked a bit more drapey than the photo, but I think I usually need to use a size 10 in Simplicity, so perhaps the extra drape comes from using a slightly larger size than normal?  I like the amount of drape it has though, so I am pleased with it.

What did you particularly like/dislike about the pattern?  Likes: I like the fact that this had a center back seam which gives it nice shaping.  I also like the fit of the pattern, ease of construction, and I think the sleeves look really cute!  I also like the extra-long length of the top.  Usually I have to add length, but not on this pattern.  My only dislike - I am not really a fan of where the lowest pleat lies on my body - it looks like an awkwardly placed bust dart.

Fabric used:  Mystery knit from the National City Swap Meet, most likely some sort of rayon?  It was nice to sew with, so now I just have to hope it doesn't pill too badly after repeated washings.

Pattern alterations or design changes you made:  None.  I made view E exactly as drafted.

Would you sew this again?  Would you recommend it to others?  I might sew this again - I really like this top.  Actually, I think I might make a frankenpattern using the back and sleeves from this pattern, and using the front piece from McCall's 6078 to remove the awkward bust dart that I don't like. But, yes, I could see myself making more of these tops in the future.  I would recommend this pattern - easy to make and the fit was really great right out of the envelope.

Conclusion:  Overall I think this is a great pattern and very easy to put together.  It could look really classy in a black knit, or look cute and casual in a fun print.  I think it was a great choice for my teal striped knit.  Highly recommended!

I wore this top to a party - super comfy and I even got a few compliments!  I was a bit worried about the knit stretching out, but even a few excited puppies pawing at the cowl didn't stretch the fabric out of shape, so I think this top will see heavy use in the rotation.  Definitely a great use of the few hours it took to stitch this together and my bargain priced swap meet fabric.

Newsflash: New Simplicity Patterns Announced!

Simplicity has released their latest collection of spring patterns.  Overall... meh.  A lot of trends were showing up - peplums, cleavage windows, hi-lo hems, and 80s inspired party dresses abound - but I wasn't seeing a lot of new or innovative styles that were going to be "must buys."  Let's take a look:

First off - peplums:

A Project runway peplum pattern.
Nothing I haven't seen in other patterns.

I don't know if this overlay is really a "peplum" style,
but I think it looks a bit too big and (dare I say) frumpy anyway.

A Lisette peplum pattern.  Again, nothing really new here.

I thought this next trend had ended, but apparently cleavage window cut outs are still a thing...

This pattern is ok, but nothing really exciting...

I am torn on this one.  I sort of like the style, but don't know that I would wear it.

The shirt makes me think of a superhero costume...

Hi-lo hems and color blocking also seem to be sticking around:

Still not a fan of the oversized baggy style.

There is just too much fabric being used in that top.

Minimal color blocking.  I think it might be more interesting
if they had used black to trim the jacket as well.

There were a few patterns I really liked, but they reminded me a lot of patterns I already own...

This "new" AmazingFit pattern reminds me a lot of...

This well-loved patterns that really does have an AmazingFit.

The seaming on this new Cynthia Rowley reminds me a lot of...

This pattern from a few releases ago.

The only other patterns of note are mostly party dresses:

I really liked the look of this pattern, but the halter ties
in the back, and I prefer a more stable support structure up top.

I can appreciate the style of this pattern, but I know it isn't a style for me.
Maybe something my sister would wear though?

All I can see is 80s prom.  Don't believe me?  Check out the other picture:

Total 80s all the way.

My favorite!  I don't really *need* another pretty dress
pattern, but I don't think I can resist this one.
Also, Pantone Emerald Green.  I see what you did there Simplicity!

And that's about it!  I mean, sure, there are some really basic skirts and elastic-waist pants, a few wardrobe patterns with a bunch of style re-hashes, and lots of kids and crafts patterns.  As far as these overall release goes... meh.  Most of the styles seemed very similar to previous pattern releases or patterns I already have in the stash.  Not too much here to interest me, but maybe I am missing something?  Let me know what you all think in the comments!

Pattern Review: BS-11-2012-136A

You guys - I sewed!  I was getting over my cold/flu/energy draining thing and decided that I really needed to get some sewing done.  Of course, I didn't really have the energy to sew something I needed to be sewing... like working on skating costume patterns for my clients, finishing up half-done projects from last year, or getting a start on my project list for this year.  I tried to work on the skating costumes for my tutorial...  one (testing out a new pattern) was a bust, mainly because of the bust.  Apparently I have an even more ridiculously high bust than I thought, since the overall pattern length was perfect, yet the neck practically dipped below my bust on the Kwik Sew pattern (2962) I was testing out.  I got some work done on the other sample I was making (using my TNT), but I really had no energy or desire to put on and take off a spandex leotard more than once, so work stalled on that.

As I was lying in bed feeling sickly, I began pondering where I should store my latest fabric acquisitions, I thought, why not actually sew some of them?  I mean, some of them are destined to be part of the skating stash, but I have been eyeing that striped teal knit since I got it.  Because I like teal, and (apparently) I like stripes (before I started sewing I never wore stripes, but now it seems like one of my favorite fabric patterns to buy).  I wanted to wear that fabric dang it!  So I pondered my fabric and I pondered my pattern stash and I debated between a fitted top and an oversized drapey top and I ended up making one of each.  Well, kind of.

My first thought was that I wanted something sort of oversized and slouchy to make use of the wide stripe.  But, on the other hand, I didn't want something too boxy - I mean, even in a clingy knit I don't look good in shapeless garments.  So after pondering things I settled on a Burda pattern from last November:

BS-11-2012-136A

In the end it was just the sort of look I was going for - a nice oversized drape to the sleeves, but enough shaping to show off the fact that I have a waist.  I am really pleased with how it turned out:

Super easy top!

Only two pattern pieces - a front and a back.

The sleeves do open quite low on the sides...
definitely need to wear a cami under this top.

Here is my official pattern review:

Pattern Description:  T-shirt pattern with oversized sleeves, v-neck, and fitted waist.

Pattern Sizing:  Burda sizes 34-42.  I traced at 38 at the neck opening, a 40 for the shoulders through the waist, and graded out to a 42 at the hips.  Typically I makes a size 40 Burda, but I have noticed that I tend to have gaping on the back of the neck, so I thought it would be good to try using a 38 neck opening and I have to say I think the fit is superb!  I am going to have to use this trick more in the future.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  I read them and they seem pretty good for Burda.  I mean, there isn't anything too complicated about this pattern, but since Burda made it in a mohair, they have a lot of instructions for hemming and seam finishes that I ignored.  I basically made the whole thing on my serger, and did a narrow hem for all of the openings.

Did it look like the photo/drawing when you were done with it?  Yes, pretty much.  I added a bit of length (just because I like long tops) but other than that it looks pretty similar to the line drawing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about this pattern?  Likes:  This is a very easy pattern to make!  Only two pattern pieces to trace, only four seams to sew.  I also like that while the sleeves give the top an oversized easy look, there is a nice fit to the waist area that prevents the top from being too baggy.  Dislikes:  Well, I don't know if I would classify this as a "dislike" since it is part of the design of the pattern, but the sleeves are very low and open, so a tank is necessary underneath to prevent everyone from seeing any undergarments you might be wearing.  It also makes it a bit more difficult to raise your arms, but since it is in a knit that really isn't too much of an issue.

Fabric used:  A mystery knit picked up from the National City Swap Meet.  I think it is some sort of rayon blend?  It is fairly lightweight and slightly slubby, but didn't have any problems with stretching, rolling, or fraying, so I really enjoyed sewing with it.

Pattern alterations or designs changes you made:  None, really.  I added an extra two inches of length to the pattern because I prefer longer tops.  I also used lazy narrow hems (ie I used my serger to finish the edge, then flipped it to the inside and stitched it down) instead of bias binding on the edges.  Perhaps I should have used a binding, but I sort of want this to have a stretched out lazy look about it, so if it doesn't stay pristine I think I might be ok with that.

Would you sew this again?  Would you recommend it to others?  Well, the oversized look usually isn't my thing, and until I got this fabric I hadn't even been considering this pattern.  But I actually really like this top on me, so I think I might sew it again if the right fabric turned up.  I would recommend this pattern to others - it is easy and well drafted - if they were looking for a top with this sort of dropped sleeve.  I wouldn't recommend this as a basic t-shirt pattern, but I think it is great for making layering pieces.

Conclusion:  Surprisingly good pattern!  It was one I hadn't even considered when I first got this magazine, but it seemed right for my fabric.  I am very pleased with the results and I think I will get a lot of use out of my quick and easy top.

Dance Skating - The Argentine Tango

The past few years I have been doing a video post series on the dances used in roller skating competition, partially to be informative, but mostly to share videos of great skating performances.  I have already covered most of the dances chosen for competition this year (you can see links to all of my skating posts on my main skating info page), so I will start filling in the missing dances, and also start covering some of the American-only dances and lower level dances as well.

This year the dances chosen for International competition are:

Junior World Class Team Dance:
Flirtation Waltz
Harris Tango

Junior World Class Solo Dance:
Dench Blues
Rocker Foxtrot

World Class Team Dance:
Argentine Tango
Starlight Waltz

World Class Solo Dance:
Viennese Waltz
Italian Foxtrot

Of these, the only one that hasn't been competed since I started writing my blog is the Argentine Tango - which is actually a really fun dance to watch!  So let's get to it with info and videos after the break.