Newsflash: June Burda Preview Posted

My joining the Russian Burda website is working rather well, as it seems that only logged in members can view the previews of the new magazines?  Anyway, you might get to see the new designs here with any luck.  Overall I have to say I am quite pleased with this issue.  I think there is a nice assortment of casual summer clothes, solid basics, and summer athletic wear, but I am especially in love with so many of their summer special occasion dresses.  So much pretty!  And it has been ridiculously hot the past few days, so I am totally ready for summer clothes.  Well, I would be if I weren't drowning in skating costumes.  But there are definitely some patterns from this issue that I want to include in my future wardrobe.

Ok, let's just start things off with the good stuff, the pretty dresses:

Love the subtle gathers at the neck and waist.

Details are a bit easier to see in the line drawing.

The short version might be more practical.
(Though I would leave off the fluffy flowers.)

The ruching on the bodice is so pretty! 

It makes me think of a gown for ballroom dancing.

I like the idea of this dress, but I think the gathers look maybe a bit too haphazard?
Though I love the crossed top of the neckline.

I think I prefer the all-over ruching on this dress.

I feel like this would be perfect if I were a guest
for a summer beach wedding.

There were also some nice, classy, but more practical patterns this month:

How many of these tops am I going to make?
So many.

I would change the pockets, but otherwise I LOVE these pants.
Classy.

Nice basic shorts, but the lack of fly front seems to make them a bit dressier.

I still need to make a TNT shirt pattern, so this is of interest to me.

Not necessarily my favorite style of jacket,
but I could see it being nice for a summer evening.

Nicely fitted t-shirt.

Look at the seam lines!  Looks like a great t-shirt pattern for a more fitted style.  

Basic dress, but classy.

The side seams/panels make it more fitted
than many of the other sheath dresses I have seen lately.

There were also a few things that are casual, but look good for a summer wardrobe:

Basic dress, but cute for super hot summer days.

I sort of like this more fluffy skirt.
It makes me want to twirl.

But holy cow look at all those godets!
Might be interesting to sew just for construction purposes.

Basic skirt, but could be a wardrobe workhorse.

Not really a fan of this obligatory one-shoulder draped dress...

But I am rather liking it as a top.

Similarly, the neckline is the only
interesting thing about this boring grey maxi dress...

But I could see myself wearing this top all summer.

Burda is also giving us a Vintage pattern this month:

Not my favorite...  But you can feel free to disagree.

There is also a section that seems to be more based on summer athletic or workout style clothes.  I think there is a nice mix of fashion and function in these designs.  So while I don't know that this will be useful for everyone, it is something I don't think Burda has done too much before, so I am going to say that I like it!

Same as the fitted t-shirt above, but with a sporty feel.

Sort of like this zipper top, though don't know how
I would feel about the zipper  against my skin if I were exercising.

Exercise shorts could be super practical.

This dress might not be good for exercising, but I sort of like it.

I am on the fence with this color blocked knit dress though.
Thoughts?

Ok, so this is just a basic drawstring skirt,
but I could see it being good as a swimsuit cover up.

Even the bad stuff in this issue wasn't all that bad.  Most of it was just so boring as to not be worth mentioning.  The Burda Plus section was rather snooze-worthy this time around.  In fact, there were only two patterns I found to be bad enough to point out as being particularly cringe-worthy this month:

A square wrapped around the body is not a cute look for an adult.
Your three year old?  Yeah, sure.  For you?  No, not so much.

Burda insists that this is a dress.
A see-through dress made out of mesh fabric?
WTF, Burda, WTF.

So yay!  Another month down.  Crazy to think we are halfway through our Burdas for the year.  Anyway, it is time to pick the best and worst looks for the month.  It was really, really hard to pick out the "best" look.  I am trying to decide between the awesome but impractical fancy dresses, and the much more likely to be sewn/worn basic tops, pants, and skirts.  In the end I sort of went to the halfway point, and decided to award the Best of BS to:

Cowl neck dress of win!

I love this dress, but I can see how it might not be the best pattern for everyone.  However, the cowl top that is similar to this dress could look good on a lot of people, so I figured this would be a good compromise.  Also, I want one.

As far as the worst of the month, well, I think it is pretty obvious that BWTF for June goes to:

That is NOT a dress.  A top, maybe.  A dress, no.
And I can see through it!!!

And there we have it.  I am excited.  Yes, a few misses, but way more hits.  What do you all think?  Are you swooning over the gorgeous gowns, or are you more interested in the basics?  Or are you just bored?  Also, anyone else worried for July?  Seems to me that usually June or July tend to be good, and the other tends to be an atrocity of squares and sack dresses.  Feel free to discuss in the comments!

Skating Dress Tutorial Part I: The Info Dump

Ok, so today's post is about what we are going to need to make our skating costumes.  Since we are sewing something of a specialty item, there are a lot of particulars, but I expect you will probably already have a lot of them about your sewing space if you already sew.  If you don't sew, but want to make skating costumes, then this should give you a good idea of what it is going to take to get started.  I am going to try and point out what is the bare minimum in terms of necessity, but also what I recommend as having for better or easier results.

(1) Sewing Machine(s)

Ok, since this is a sewing blog I expect most of my readers probably already have a sewing machine, but if you don't there are a few things to look for when you get one.  For making skating costumes the most important thing is that your sewing machine have a zig-zag stitch:

I typically use the regular zig-zag (#04) for elastic and topstitching.
I used to use the 3-step zig-zag (#05) to construct major seams.

3-step zig-zag stitch.

Zig-zags provide a lot of stretch but don't give the smoothest seams though.

The zig-zag allows the fabric to stretch without placing too much stress on the threads or fabric prevent the seams from ripping.  I would say the bare minimum for sewing skating costumes is to make sure you have a single step zig-zag stitch on your machine.

Most modern machines have several types of zig-zag stitches, most often a single strep and 3-step, though some have even more options.  If you are looking at more modern computerized machines, I also highly recommend that they have the "stretch overlock" stitch:

The Stretch Overlock stitch is one of my favorites - stretchy and a smooth seam.

A sample of the stretch overlock stitch before cutting off the extra seam allowance.

I think this gives a much smoother seam.

This will give a better, smoother appearance to the side-seams than a regular zig-zag will.  Also helpful for improving your seams - a walking foot.  I find that this works well in making sure that stretch fabrics are fed through the sewing machine evenly.  It isn't necessary, but it is helpful.

If you are planning to regularly sew skating costumes (or knits in general), then I also highly recommend buying a serger:

My serger - the Brother 1034D

A serger or overlock machine is a special type of sewing machine that cuts the fabric seam allowance as you sew, and uses four threads to stitch and cover the seam.  It often provides the smoothest seams while still allowing the fabric to stretch.  It can also be used to help with elastic insertion, and most have other features like rolled hems that can also be helpful for costume construction.  It is not a necessary item (I sewed for many years before I got one), but I find that I use it on almost all of my sewing projects now in one capacity or another, so it could be a good investment.

Serger cuts away the extra seam allowances, and neatens the edges with thread.

Finally, if you are really getting into this, you might consider a coverstitch machine:

A Brother Coverstitch Machine

The coverstitch is a very specific machine used for hemming knit fabrics.  You won't really need it to hem, but it can also be useful in elastic insertion.  If you want your skating costumes to look like you "bought it off the rack" then this machine will give that appearance to the elastic parts of your garments.  (On a side rant - you probably DON'T want your costume to look like you bought it off the rack - they are usually poorly fitting and the skirts are often fairly ugly or ill fitting.  Am I a skating costume snob?  Yeah, I kinda am...).  I don't have a coverstitch machine (yet... but I want one!), so I won't be using one for this tutorial, but if you have one you can use it to get a very professional finished edge to your skating costume.

Buying a sewing machine is a big purchase, so you will want to do a little research.  There are entire websites dedicated to people discussing the intricacies of various brands and models.  Older vintage machines are often most robust, but least equipped to deal with stretch fabrics.  Modern machines have more options, but can often be more flimsy.  I have used three machines (my first was a Brother CS6000i, then a Brother 9050SQ, and now my new Janome 3160QDC) and all have been fine for sewing skating costumes, though I will admit my upgrade to the Janome has been a bit of a revelation   The first machine I bought from Amazon and the second from WalMart (long story).  You don't need the biggest fanciest machine, but if your main goal is to sew skating costumes, it might be worth upgrading a little bit to make sure it has some of the additional stitch functions you might find yourself wanting to use.

So, to summarize:
Necessary: Sewing Machine with zig-zag
Better: Sewing Machine with multiple zig-zag options and stretch overlock stitch and a walking foot
Best: Sewing machine with zig-zag and a serger
Ultimate: Sewing machine, serger, and coverstitch machines

(2) Needles

Ok, so now that we have a sewing machine, we need to make sure we use the right type of needle on our skating costume fabric.  Most fabrics do well with a regular sharp needle, but knit and stretch fabrics need a special type of needle so as to not get runs or snags while you are sewing them.  The cheeper or more common stretch needle is called a ball-point needle, because the tip is more rounded than a regular needle.  The shape on some have been refined even more, and are called stretch needles. You can find sewing machine needles at your local sewing/craft store, but I do have a few recommendations on brands and sources.  For many years I used the Dritz brand of needle, but I wasn't entirely happy with the performance (I found they would dull quickly and break easily).  Schmetz stretch needles are a much better quality, but are far more expensive.  Then I got a comment on Pattern Review and someone recommended the Organ Needles from CTS to me.  Awesome!  You have to buy in bulk, but they are so much cheeper on a per-needle basis it is worth it (not to mention you won't have to buy needles for years, and you won't have to worry about breaking one... or four).  I think Schmetz is still the best brand, but in a quality vs. price comparison, Organ wins out (they are still very good needles).  As far as size is concerned, I prefer to use the 90/14 size, because I think it lasts better when sewing through the elastic.  If you have a very delicate fabric though, you might want to use the size 75/11 instead, at least for the major seams.

Necessary: Ball Point Needles
Better: Stretch Ball Point Needles
Best: Schmetz Ball Point Needles

(3) Patterns

Unless you know how to draft your own patterns, it is probably best to buy one of the patterns commercially available.  The two companies that offer the most selection right now are Kwik Sew and Jalie.  Another option is Specialty Sportswear, though I haven't ever ordered or used any of their patterns, so I cannot offer any advice on their product.  The do seem to have a wide assortment of options, and many possibilities for boys as well, so I did want to include the link just in case you want to take a chance on them and try their patterns (also, if you have ever used them please leave a comment and tell me how it was!).  Both Jalie and Kwik Sew have multi-sized patterns, so I think they are better investments (you can sew for many people or growing people or shrinking people with just one pattern), but really you just need to find a pattern that appeals to you.  Kwik Sew has separate children and adult patterns, but Jalie has them all in one envelope, so that is something to consider as well.  Personally, I prefer Kwik Sew at the moment, because I have had a great fit with everyone I have sewn for, though I have had decent results with Jalie as well.  Since I use my self-drafted skirts, I will often use leotard or swim suit patterns instead of actual skating costume patterns, but you should get whatever appeals to you.  My TNT (tried-and-true) pattern is Kwik Sew 2601,

but when I sew for others I most often use Kwik Sew 3502 as a starting point.

My plan for this tutorial is to use my TNT for one dress and try out an new pattern, Kwik Sew 2962 for a second dress.  (Spoiler Alert: The new pattern doesn't turn out well...)

I will use the top from view A and the bottom from view B.

Necessary: Any leotard-style pattern you want to use.

(4) Fabric

The fun part - fabric shopping!  You are going to need some sort of stretchy fabric to make a skating costume, but you also need to remember that since it will be active wear you want the fabric to have good recovery and decent ability to deal with moisture and perspiration.  If you are starting out I recommend sticking to the spandex or nylon/lycra swimwear materials.  These often come in the most colors and prints, and will work out well.  There are different qualities and weights, but in general these will yield the best results.  If you are feeling more adventurous, you can try stretch velvet or "slinky" materials - these can work well, but often have a greater range of quality available, so I would say you should use your best judgement on these.  I am a big fan of lace skating costumes, but if you are just starting make sure to use stretch lace that has at least 8% lycra content.  Fabrics to avoid: cotton knits, rayon knits, panne stretch velvets.  These will either provide too little stretch, too little recovery, or will roll like crazy and drive you batty.  They can be great for other things, but not for skating costumes.  Of course, I recommend going to your local fabric store to look for skating costume fabric, since feeling the stretch, weight, and drape will help you choose the best option, but if that is not possible then my favorite source of online skating fabric is Spandex World.  They have a swatch service (which used to be free but now costs $0.75 per sample.  But if you are looking for something specific or color matching it is fabulous, I must say), and they are very efficient in filling their orders.  They have a huge assortment of fabrics and I would say that their prices are fair (you won't be getting a deal, but you won't be overpaying either).  Most skating fabrics are in the 60" wide range, but a few are 45" or less, so you should check that before you order.  In general, I buy about 2 yards of a fabric, or 3 yards if I am going to be having full sleeves.  You should check your pattern for fabric requirements, but always buy a little bit extra (especially if you are going to change the skirt pattern).  The flat skirts (that I like to use) take up less fabric, but the cutting layout can be a bit more awkward than the round fluffy skirts. I also recommend getting 1 yard of a lining fabric.  This isn't always necessary, but I like to line all of my skating costumes, except for velvet.  I think having an extra layer provides more structure and support, and helps to keep everything in place.

Necessary: 2-3 yards of stretch fabric
Optional: 1 yard of lining fabric

(5) Other Supplies

Now that we have the main parts of our costume we need to get a few extra notions to help make it.

(a) Elastic - Elastic is used at all of the openings of the skating costume to help keep things in place.  The elastic should have good recovery so that it won't stretch out and the outfit won't become baggy.  I tend to disregard pattern instructions and use elastic one width size larger than instructed. The smaller elastic will give you a prettier result, but the larger elastic will keep your tights in place.  I generally use braid elastic, as I find knit elastic to be too stiff and uncomfortable, especially when around the leg area.  Also, whatever else you do, do NOT use clear elastic - it will stretch out and not maintain its shape well at all.  My recommendations for sizes:

1/4" - occasionally useful, especially if you need to make boot covers
3/8" - this is the size I use around all of the openings, except the leg holes.  Buy several yards of this, especially if you have an open back and no sleeves.  Less fabric = more elastic.
1/2" - the size I use for the leg openings.  I always use less than the pattern recommends, but I still need a little over a yard for each costume
3/4" - 1 1/2" - I use these large sizes to make straps, so I always have some around, but not as much as in the smaller sizes

Necessary: 3-5 yards 3/8" elastic, 2 yards 1/2" elastic
Optional: Other sizes of elastic

(b) Thread - Obviously we need thread for our sewing machines.  My favorite brand is Guttermann, though I have used Coats & Clark, and I have heard good things about Mettler as well.  Skating costumes take up a LOT of thread because you are using so many zig-zag stitches.  You should use polyester sew-all thread because it is stronger than cotton, and will be more resistant to decay from contact with perspiration.  If you are using only a sewing machine I recommend getting at least 200m (but probably better to get 300-500m) per costume.  If you are using a serger, then I have really liked the Maxi-Lock serger thread, but I have also used Guttermann thread as well.  For the serger, I use regular sewing machine thread in the needles, and serger thread through the loopers.  I do this because the loopers use more threads but have less stress on them, so I can get away with using a cheaper thread.  I use regular thread in the needles because those threads will have more force on them, and I want them to be stronger.  I know that if you are using a serger, it is supposed to be better to use wooly nylon threads in the loopers, but it is so expensive that I haven't yet been able to bring myself to use it.  In my experience, using the regular thread in the loopers works just as well, and I don't notice any irritation or rubbing.  If you have sensitive skin, wooly nylon is probably a better option.

Necessary: 200-300m sew-all polyester thread
Better (for use with a serger): 3 spools polyester sew-all thread, 2 spools serger thread
Best (for a serger): 3 spools polyester sew-all thread, 2 spools (or more) wooly nylon thread

(c) Rotary Cutter and Mat - This is an optional tool that will make cutting out the skating costume MUCH easier.  You can cut it out with traditional scissors, but the rotary cutter is faster, easier, and gives a cleaner cut on knits.  I use the Olfa brand, but there are others that will work just as well.  If you use this, you should also get a self-healing mat, in the largest size you can afford.  I have a 24" x 36" mat and it is the perfect size for skating costumes, though I do often wish it were larger for other projects.  Maybe when I have a real cutting table and not just the floor...  I also recommend a clear straightedge ruler - very helpful for cutting strips of fabric for straps.  Along with this you can also look for pattern weights to help keep your pattern in place as you are cutting it out.  I don't have any, and use other objects instead (like scissors, tape dispensers, etc.), but I think they could be quite useful and might consider getting some myself in the future.  If you don't have a rotary cutter, you should at least have good scissors that are for fabric cutting only.

Necessary: Fabric scissors
Better: Rotary cutter and mat
Optional: Clear straightedge and pattern weights

(d) Tape Measure and Sewing Gauges - Being able to measure is important in sewing.  You should have an accurate tape measure so you can measure yourself or your skater to figure out what sizes you will need from your pattern.  You can use this to measure other things, but I have found that I am now addicted to having a sewing gauge by my machine, and so I recommend that as well.

Necessary: Tape Measure
Optional: Sewing Gauge

(e) Tracing Paper - Since most of the skating costume patterns are multi-sized, and since they are also fairly expensive ($10 and up), I don't recommend cutting directly into the original pattern (though I did do this when I first started).  This also means if you screw up any fit alterations, the original is still intact.  So I recommend tracing the patterns, then doing alterations to the trace and keeping the original clean.  Since I also trace magazine patterns, I go through a lot of tracing paper, and so I use medical exam paper to trace all my patterns.  It is not always the easiest to see through to trace, but it is a nice compromise on price, durability, and traceability.  I have never splurged on "real" tracing paper - the kind with the grids - but I expect it might be better.  I have seen a lot of different tracing methods online, and if you have a favorite method you can share it in the comments.  I usually just trace with my medical paper and a regular old ball point pen.  Of course, if you want you can just cut out your pattern, but, again, I don't really recommend it.

Optional: Tracing paper

And that's it!  Ok, it seems like a lot, but most of you probably either have many of these items, or, if not at least once you have them you can reuse them.  I am going to do a separate post about rhinestones, sequins, embellishment, and general bling since there is a lot of stuff there to cover.  After that we can get to work making our skating costumes!

Preface: Skating Dress Tutorial

So a few (well, more than a few.... sorry about that) months ago one of my readers had asked a few questions about my skating costumes, which I could have answered easily enough had I not been so busy at the national championships at the time.  A question from one reader turned into a few questions from many readers, and so I have decided to try and wrap it all up into one giant tutorial.

I am going to start this off with a disclaimer: this tutorial is just an example of the way I do things, not necessarily the best way for things to get done.  Since I started sewing skating costumes before I sewed anything else my methods are a mix of following pattern instructions, winging it, and developing more efficient methods and procedures over time.  I have tried experimenting with various different stitches and techniques, and I think I have settled on a "what works best for me" approach, though there are books and internet sources that will contradict me on some points.  So you can take what I say with a grain of salt, but, on the other hand, I have probably made close to 50 skating garments (for myself and others, both women and men), so it isn't like I am making this up as I go along either.

I know most of you don't need to sew skating costumes, but I am hoping you can take some of these techniques and apply them to other athletic gear, or basic leotards or swimsuits.  I won't really be doing this as a sew-along, but I am going to have a few introductory posts before I get to construction, so if you want to follow as I go, you have a few days to get ready.  I plan on making two costumes for this tutorial - one from my TNT and one from a new pattern, and I will also do one with a symmetric skirt and one with an asymmetric skirt.  Hopefully during the course of the tutorial everyone's questions will get answered, but if not I am always happy to respond to comments.

Here is my planned schedule for this tutorial:
Part I: The Info Dump - What you need and where to get it.

Part II: All That Sparkles - I won't be applying any embellishments to my practice dresses, but since there have been a few questions, I though I would do a post for this as well.

Part III: Prepping the Pattern and Cutting the Fabric - I will also talk about my self-drafted skirt patterns and how to make one yourself and why you don't have to worry about the pattern being "perfect."

Part IV: Sewing the Bodysuit - Order of construction, what stitches to use, which areas of fit are important to check mid-construction.

Part V: Inserting the Elastic - Stitch options and techniques, also final fit check of the bodysuit and insertion of structural support (aka sewing in the bra).

Part VI: Sewing and Attaching the Skirt - Why skirt attachment will make or break your outfit, method of attachment, and why I favor topstitching.

Conclusion: Have Fun Skating! - Final thoughts, answers to any questions that might pop up mid-tutorial, and general sense of accomplishment post.

So, them's the plans y'all!  I hope I get around to answering everyone's questions, and I hope that you all find the tutorial useful and enjoyable.

Using My Hobby to Pay for My Hobby

A while ago my dad asked me what I have been doing with my time, sort of implying that I have been abusing my recently graduated status laze about and eat bon-bons all day.  I gave him a look and told him I had been sewing.  A lot.  Mostly for skating people who have been paying me for my services.  After having this conversation and talking numbers my dad paused for a moment and questioned if I shouldn't be investing in a second sewing machine?  To be fair he was recalling the time last year when a broken sewing machine sent me into a panicked midnight shopping trip to a WalMart, but honestly when my dad thinks I need a new sewing machine you know I have been sewing like fiend.  I have been sewing enough, in fact, to be able to actually afford a new machine using the profits from my completed orders.  And when I say a new sewing machine I don't mean a cheap minimal WalMart back up machine.  No, sewing world, I have upgraded to an honest-to-goodness legit sewing machine from an actual dealer/repair shop:

My new baby!

Yup, I ended up with a Janome.  To be completely honest, before the start of this year I had really been craving and saving for a Bernina.  But during my awesome San Diego blogger meet-up in January, talking to a machine repair man at The National City Yardage Town got me starting to think about Janome as a much more affordable possibility that I had never really considered before.  Then one of my favorite sewing bloggers was showing off her new beauty and got me thinking about it even more seriously.

The box... and I got some bobbins and a walking foot in the deal.

So when my dad brought up the secondary machine idea... well, it was definitely something I had considered.  But I also knew if I was going to get another machine it was going to be an upgrade, not a downgrade.  So I saved for a few months and after pondering options online I decided it might be worth taking the time to check things out at a dealership if I was going to be investing that much money in a machine.  So I dragged my mom along to two of the dealerships in the area (she doesn't sew, but I usually feel like I need an adult with me when I try to make a large purchase.  Mostly because the people at the hardware store are still unconvinced that I am old enough to buy spray paint...).  The first place pretty much blew us off.  We weren't there for a Pfaff or a high-end Brother embroidery machine, so they weren't much interested in dealing with us.  Not to mention that their prices were double what I would pay online for lower quality machines.  So, no go.  The second place was much nicer.  It was clear to them I was the seamstress, and they were interested in selling to me, not my mom.  First time that has ever happened.  They were also quite conscious of my budget, so they focused on the machines in my price point, not too pushy about upgrading to things I couldn't afford.  They spent time showing me features and let me play with some fabric scraps I had brought with me.  Despite getting the royal treatment, the real thing that sold me - the machine itself.  It is so smooth!  I mean, yes, I got lots of fancy features I haven't had before (Adjustable presser foot pressure!  Eyelet stitch!  Automatic thread cutter!!!), but really in the end the best feature of the machine is the machine itself.

Yes, it has an automatic thread cutter.
No, I don't need it, but oh man do I like it.

I have been using the machine for just over a week now.  I love it so much I can't even describe.  It just feels so solid and smooth and wonderful.  It is one of those things where I didn't really realize how problematic things were with my old machine until I got to try things on my new one.  Simple things like the fact that it stitches in a straight line still amaze me.  Really, I was always fighting with feeding the fabric through my Brothers, but the Janome just sucks it along without a problem at all.

60 stitch options, including several buttonholes and an eyelet!

The machine came with free classes at the dealership (haven't had any yet, but the store is one light away from the rink I skate at, so it won't be a problem to go), and they threw in a free walking foot and extra bobbins.  The walking foot is something I use constantly, and I find this foot mildly more difficult to attach than on my old machine, but I have to say the difference between using the Brother foot and the Janome foot is like night and day!  I always had problems with fabrics bunching or snagging on the Brother foot, but the Janome foot has had none of these problems.  I have even been rather mean to the machine and used the walking foot over snap tape (twill tape with the metal snaps attached) without any problems.  This machine is a beast.

Stitch samples - I think I am going to have top stitching fun with some of the options!

Aside from how smoothly it feeds fabric, I love how solid the machine feels.  Before if I used heavy fabric on the Brother machines it would move the machines across the table (or flip them off the table in the case of a few wool coats I have made).  Now if I shake my machine the whole table moves but the machine is solid.  Amazing.  And (this will probably sound really weird) but I love how the bobbin winder feels. There is something satisfying about the solid click of moving the bobbin winder that I never had on the Brother machines.  And because of the way this machine is set up I can wind a bobbin without un-threading the needle.  The Brother was set up with the ability to use a twin needle, but using the secondary spool stand to wind the bobbin never worked well for me.  The ability to use a second spool to wind the bobbin, and the use of the automatic thread cutter might be fancy but unnecessary time savers, but I appreciate them anyway.  I also like the stitch plate on the Janome - it has the makings for seam allowances, but it also has common angles printed on the plates as well.  Which is totally awesome for creating perfectly pointed v-necks.  Oh, and I have been using the automatic needles threader - a feature I had on the Brother, but it never worked well, so I was always better off threading by hand.  The bobbin is also super easy to thread, so I can have the machine ready to go in mere moments.  So awesome.

I am still getting use to some of the differences between this machine and the Brother.  For example, this machine has a needle up/down, so the needle will stop up if you start with it up, or stop down if you start with it down.  This machine will also sew even if the presser foot is not lowered, whereas the Brother would always flag an error if that were the case.  Which would be fine, except the foot pedal is much more sensitive than the Brother.  This is actually a good thing (the pedal is also much more solid and doesn't seem to travel around the floor under the table either), but I am not quite used to it yet, so I have had a few unexpected bouts of stitching when I was trying to pivot or position the fabric.  I do have to admit that I really like that I can position the needle for the straight stitches, and that there are a few stitches that have automatic knots to start/finish a seam.  And I can sew backwards at full speed!  Before I had to make each backstitch with a press of a button, but now I can press the button to backstitch or finish a seam at full speed.  This is so lovely.  It is amazing the things we can live without, but now that I know what I have been missing I don't know if I can do without these things again in the future.  I do like that this has many of my favorite features from my Brother machines, like variable speed control, so I don't feel like I am missing anything by switching brands.

I haven't had much chance to use this on anything other than stretch velvet thus far, but I hope to be able to use it on different fabric types soon.  Especially since I have a few non-skating dresses to make by the end of the month.  In the meantime I am going to be enjoying using my new baby to produce more skating costumes for all the big events this summer.

Sewing machine love!

My only complaint is that the manual seems a bit lacking in detail.  Which is ok if you know how to sew, but would have been daunting if this were my first machine.  Either way, I am enjoying my new machine and look forward to using it extensively in the months and years to come.

Skating Update: A Comparison of the Roll Line Dance and Energy Plates

As I have been hinting in several of my recent blog posts, there have been a few recent developments as far as both my skating and sewing lives go.  Mostly in the form of new toys.  Last year, my readers may recall, I did a large multi-part series analyzing my switch from Atlas to Roll Line skate plates (you can find the index of posts here).  After much trial, tribulation, frustration, and triumph, I ended up quite happy with my figure skates (Harlick boot, Roll Line Giotto Plate, Roll Line Giotto wheels) and my loop skates (Harlick boot, Atlas figure plate, Roll Line Giotto wheels).  I was also initially quite happy with my new dance plates, the Roll Line Dance:

Dance skates last year...

But after a year on these skates, I realized I really preferred the feel of my figure plates, which were a half size smaller.  Sadly, the Roll Line Dance doesn't come in half sizes, so when I got my much needed new dance boots at the start of this season, I decided I would use the Roll Line Ring plate (which I had got for figures but didn't really like using for figures or loops) since it was essentially the same as the Dance plate, the only difference being the lack of a toe stop mount.  At the time I had no need for a toe stop, so my dance skates ended up looking like this:

Dance skates at the start of the season...

I have been skating on these plates most of the year (after about a day I switched to the green urethane cushions - I found that with the shorter plate I needed a softer cushion than when I used the slightly too long plate - and eventually switched to the even softer medium rubber).  Of course, just when I thought things were good and my skates were feeling very settled, events turned about such that I had need of a toe-stop mount on my dance skates.  I tried using my older skates, but the worn out boot and too-long plate ended up making life more difficult than it needed to be.  So after much hemming, hawing, and deliberation I made the decision that needed to be made and sold my old Dance plates so I could afford a plate to suit my current skating needs, the Roll Line Energy:

Dance skates now!

The one thing I will say about Roll Line - my options were extremely limited knowing that I needed a half-size plate with a toe stop mount with the main purpose being for a dance skate.  As in, my only option was an Energy.  Which has actually ended up being ok, because I really really like this plate.  Even more than the Ring/Dance plate to be honest (heresy, I know!!!).  I have been on this plate only a few weeks, but really it was instant love the first time I put them on.  It was similar to my reaction to the Giotto plate after I had been using the Ring for figures - it just felt right.  Which doesn't necessarily mean it is the right plate for everyone.  But I do know it is the right plate for me.

Roll Line Energy plate.

At this point I pretty much have tested the gamut of Roll Line plates that are available in the US, at least as far as dance and figure skating go (I don't skate freestyle, so I can't comment on the Energy/Matrix comparison), and I have developed a few thoughts and opinions:

(1) Proper plate size the the most important thing.  The front axel should be under the ball of the foot.  The back axel should be under the center heel.  A longer plate will offer the skater more room for error, but that also makes it take more effort to control because it will delay the response of the skate.  A properly sized plate will offer the skater better results than differences between brands or styles.  Switching from the too-long dance plate to the correct size took me a while to adjust, but ultimately resulted in better skating with less stress on my knees and joints because the skate did what I wanted when I wanted with less resistance.

(2) Rubber cushions for the win!  I had been skating on urethane cushions for dance, but after too many complaints about me rocking off edges I switched to all rubber.  On some of the harder dances I still need to work my edge continuity, but it is much easier for me to maintain an edge on rubber cushions than on the urethane, which tend to "pop back" into the non-compressed position more quickly, and throw me off my edge.  I had already been using rubber on my figure skates, but I have been enjoying them on my dance skates lately as well.  I have heard the arguments for urethane, I have skated urethane, but at the end of the day I just don't think I will ever really like urethane.  Yes, it lasts longer, but that is about the only positive thing I can say for it.  At least as far as dance and figures go.  For freestyle... well, I can see how urethane might be better suited to that sort of skating.  But for me?  Rubber cushions.  The end.

Medium rubber cushions for the win!

(3) As far as a direct comparison of the Roll Line Energy vs. the Roll Line Dance or Roll Line Ring - I have already stated that I prefer the Energy.  But most other people who have made the switch have preferred to go the other direction.  Am I weird?  Perhaps a bit, but there is definitely a difference in the feel of the plates.  With the Energy I feel like I am on top of the skate, and like I can press into the edge and get a much quicker response.  However, I have noticed that there is a greater probability of slipping when I am attempting a deep edge.  I feel like I can get a quicker response on my one-foot turns, though that may just be because they have the same feel as my figure skates.  I also feel like I can get a better stronger push off of the Energy plates than the Dance plates.  I definitely feel higher off the floor (the angle of the kingpin does make this a slightly taller plate).  When I was skating on the Dance/Ring plates instead of feeling like I was on top of the skate I felt like I was stuck between the wheels.  It made for a very secure feeling on deep edges, but I also felt like it would get stuck on an edge and was perhaps not as quick to respond to sudden changes of edge.  I also felt like sometimes when I tried to do a three-turn the skate would be stuck on an edge and not want to change the arc and flip to the back edge.  It isn't that these plates were difficult to skate on (indeed, I really rather liked them), but it is more that I find the Energy to be easier to use for my style of skating.  I suppose one of the main reasons is that I appreciate that it feels like my figure skates, but really I just like that feeling that I am totally balanced over my skate.  Last year I tried really hard to use the Ring plates for loops, but at the end of the day I just don't enjoy feeling like I am stuck between the wheels.  Personal preference, but there it is.  If I am really objective about the different skates I might say that the Dance plate would be better for the International style of dance skating, and the Energy might be better for the American style.  Not that you couldn't use either plate for either style of skating, but the different feel might give a slight advantage to the different styles of skating.

(4) I had to borrow my sister's skates while I was waiting to transition from the Ring to the Energy, so I can now say that I have skated on Roll Line, Atlas, and Snyder.  The Energy plates actually have a very similar feel to the Snyder, but the Roll Line definitely has a more solid and secure feel.  I think the Dance plate actually feels closer to the Atlas, though the Energy and and Dance feel more like each other than they do to the other brands of plate.  In the end the best skate is really depends on the preference of the skater, but I will say that any of the Roll Line plates could be a great option.

(5) One of the nice things about the Roll Line plates is that they easily maintain value if you take care of them.  I am totally satisfied with my skate set-up at this point, and I have been selling off the equipment I know I won't have use for any longer.  So though finding my ideal skate has been a bit of a long and expensive journey, getting good quality equipment has been a worthwhile investment - either because it has helped my skating improve, or because it maintained good resale value.

So, yeah, the journey of my skates.  Longer than I had anticipated, but I finally really feel like they are my skates.  It is something hard to describe, but there is this wonderful feeling of comfort and control when things just feel right.  At this point I feel like I can finally stop analyzing and tinkering and just go skate.

Newsflash: June Burda Early Preview Posted

The early preview of the June BurdaStyle magazine has been posted on the Russian website.  So far I am sort of excited.  I mean, yes, it is summer, so there are a fair number of boring boxy throw away patterns, but this issue looks like it also has more than a few really pretty dresses and functional summer clothes.  Here are some of the more notable preview pictures:

Pretty!  I might leave the flower off of the shoulder,
but I do like the simple gather at the waist.

More pretty!  I might not want the long sleeves in summer,
but I do like the draping on this dress.

Swoon!  Love this dress - so gorgeous.

I would definitely change the pockets, but I am obsessed with these pants!

I really want to make a pair of shorts, so these are interesting me right now.
The jacket is cute too!

Not exactly my style, but this tunic is something my sister might like.

The traditional one-shoulder summer blouse.

Also comes as a dress.

Burda informs me this is a mini dress.  I think I have shirts longer than this!

So... what do you think?  Are you excited?  Or does it look like too many party clothes and not enough practical summer wear?  Anyone else excited about the pants and shorts?  Feel free to discuss in the comments!