Newsflash: December Burda Preview Posted

The preview of the final Burda magazine issue of 2013 has been posted to the Russian website.  It seems like a lot of the recent issues have produced a rather lackluster response (except November, which was in general quite well received), but I am happy to say that I think Burda is going to end the year with a bang!  I don't know that there is really any one stand-out pattern, and I do question some of Burda's fabric choices, but I feel like there are a lot of strong pieces in this issue, and I have to say I am quite excited for it to arrive!

First, there were quite a few jackets in this issue:

I really love this plaid trench coat!

I might not be such a fan of the giant pockets, but I really like the rest of the details.

I really like the collar and the contrast with the print on this jacket.

I think it doesn't quite have the impact made all in the same fabric though.

... and ugly 70s paisley print is definitely to be avoided.

The line drawing shows a lot of snazzy details though.

I actually really like the overall shape of this coat.
Reminds me a bit of the first lady knockoff coat Butterick had in a recent release.

Love the in-seam pockets and the slight flare of the hem.

I actually think the pocket details on this jacket are quite cute.

Don't know how I feel about Burda's use of sequins here... might be a bit much?
I think I prefer it in the plainer fabric shown above.

I sort of like the use of lace here, it is an interesting hybrid of a jacket and a cardigan.

I am torn on this one - I sort of like the dramatic sleeves...

... but I definitely get a bathrobe vibe with the contrast collar piece here.

With such a basic shape I think fabric could make all the difference.

This issue also had its fair share of pretty dresses:

Ok, so this dress looks a bit cheap and wrinkly in the garment photo.

But the line drawing is super interesting.

And on the model it looks pretty awesome.

The drape looks better in the fabric, so I am thinking that
this could be a good pattern, depending on the fabric choice.

Pretty!  I love the elegant drape on the top of this dress.

Though I am not sure how I feel about this overlay dress... looks a bit inexpensive.

I think it looks a bit better with sleeves..

But really the under-dress is the best part!

I am liking the seam line placement on this pattern a lot.

I also really love this dress because it is pretty,
but not too formal (and I am a bit sad it is in tall sizes).

It also comes as a maxi dress.

Other than the pleat on the skirt and the Pepto Bismal pink color,
I really really love this dress.
Might have to frankenpattern the top of this one.
Oh, and adjust it to be not in half-sizes.

This is the designer exclusive dress for the month.

The pleating detail is a bit more evident in the line drawing.

Not sure that I would want to make one for myself,
but there is definitely a distinct look to the dress.

There were a few nice separates, and some good wardrobe staples this time around as well:

These pants - I love them!  I have been pondering on making print pants for a while,
but these may have pushed me over the edge.

The in seam pockets are a nice detail.

This version doesn't look so hot on the model though.
I am hoping it is just the fabric and not the pattern?

This skirt, I LOVE it!  I am not usually a big fan of the exposed zipper,
but I think it is a great detail on this skirt.

Yup, this is going on my to-sew list once I figure out what fabric I would want to use.

Basic, but nice pencil skirt.

I actually like this rather basic skirt as well - good option for boarder prints.

It has a nice A-line shape to it.

I really love this top!  Fabric choice could make it super fancy or more casual.

Interesting how the sleeves add to the collar drape.

This top is simple, but could be a good basic pattern.

Not sure how I feel about this one.  I think I like the concept,
but maybe not the colors and fabrics so much.

I am actually quite digging this peasant blouse however.

It looks a bit boxy in the line drawing...

...but pretty wearable on the model.
Might go in the consideration pile.

In addition to the regular patterns, the Burda Plus section was quite fabulous this month as well:

This dress is stunning!  Reminds me a bit of the dress in the
Spring/Summer Burda Plus issue this year,
but nice to see a variation in the regular magazine.

This short trench coat is pretty awesome as well!

The line drawing is big and boxy...

...but it looks fantastic on the model.
I am not usually a fan of boxy, but I wish this were also in regular sizes.

Also really liking this dress, though it looks a bit odd in the garment photo.

The line drawing shows it to be a fairly basic dress with an elastic waist.

But once again the model looks amazing.

This jacket/top is also pretty cute.

And there is a nice basic pencil skirt pattern too.

Though I really liked most of the patterns this time around, there were a few that left me shaking my head:

The color and shape on this dress make it just kind of sad.
Like a 60s dress that sat out in the sun for 50 years.

The pleating on this skirt looks quite odd with the sequins.

This peplum skirt is so weird!  Is like the bad holiday sweater version of a skirt.

And there we have it - the last Burda of the year!  I don't know if it is quite as exciting as November, but I do think there is a lot to like in this issue.  I actually had quite a bit of difficulty choosing the top pattern for the month, but in the end I settled on giving the Best of BS December 2013 award to:

Green drape shirt!

This is one of those patterns that could be dressed up or down, could suit plain or fancy fabrics, and the hem could be easily altered to make a work appropriate dress or evening gown.  I think the versatility of this pattern is what sells it for me, though the fact that it looks like it would be very easy to sew is a bonus as well.  Definitely a pattern I am going to have to root around in my stash for when it arrives.

Picking the pattern on the bottom was a bit easier.  I thought it was pretty obvious the BWTF award for December belonged to:

Bedazzled peplum skirt.

The cut on the peplum is just plain unflattering, it looks like a mini apron.  And the decorations don't help it one bit.

So, what do you all think?  Board, excited, or indifferent?  Any stand out patterns, or do they all look like something you have seen before?  What are your thoughts on the print pattern pants we have been seeing in the past few issues - cute or crazy?  How do you think this issue stakes up to the rest of 2013?  Feel free to discuss in the comments!

Not a Pattern Review: Accidental Steampunk Jacket

Ok, so last month on the sewing front I managed to make two jackets.  Or, well, I made one jacket and finished most of a second one.  The only thing I haven't finished on that jacket - the bound button holes.  To be more specific, the inside of the bound button holes.  That jacket also has a very spring/summer feel to it, so I am not as motivated to finish it as I probably should be.  But I do love the pattern I made it from - Burda 06-2012-121:

Yes, I finally got around to making this jacket!  Actually it was mostly finished before I even started the teal jacket I entered in the Pattern Review contest.  And it probably has better fit an construction details.  But due to the way it is constructed I wasn't sure if it followed the contest rules.  So I left it in a partially completed state and hurried to get my second jacket done for the contest.  Now the second jacket is done it is time to return to this project.  But I am very lacking in the motivation to finish off my buttonholes.  So it remains unfinished as yet.  And I don't really want to write a full review until I am actually done with that jacket.

BUT...

After a recent splurge on a Fabric Mart sale, I ended up with some metallic suede that I thought would be great for a second version of this jacket.  Which I wasn't planning on making right away, yet the day after my fabric arrived I found myself cutting out all the pieces.  So much for my month long sewing plans.  I made this jacket a bit different than the first version - I needed underlining and interlining for structure and warmth, which I ignored on my first cotton/linen version.  The suede had a lovely drape to it, but it was terribly thin.  I mean, my linen had a stiffer hand than this poly suede.  It definitely needed help in the structure department.  I also left off the sleeve vents and used machine buttonholes instead of making bound button holes.  Then I got invited to go see an opening day showing of the new Thor movie and I had an insane idea that I would finish the jacket in time to wear to the movie.

Which wouldn't have been so bad if I hadn't spent the three previous nights not sleeping in favor of watching the world roller skating championships.  Skating, sewing, and sleeping schedules have all become a jumbled mess so I can try and watch as much of the live video feed as possible.  Which meant planning to finish this jacket on any sort of timetable was just plain silly.  And yet it seems like my best work gets produced under pressure.  So maybe giving myself crazy deadlines actually works better for me?

The lining, underling, and interlining fabrics all came from my stash.  I had hoped that I would have stash buttons to use on this jacket, but sadly I didn't have any that I thought would be acceptable.  So, with just under two hours before I had to leave for the movie, I made a trip to the local Jo-Ann, pondered over buttons, bought buttons, drove home, made buttonholes, sewed on buttons, and finished the hem.  Yeah, I literally finished this thing moments before running out the door.

But I love it!  About halfway through the project I thought it felt like it had a bit of a steampunk vibe going on, so I decided to just run with that in my button selection.  It wasn't my intent when I started the project, as originally I was going to just have one button and leave the lapels plain and floppy, but I love the way it looks with all the buttons.  And, I am happy to report, it is quite comfortable to wear as well.  I didn't quite get the sleeves set in perfectly (I am a bit sad - they went in much better in my other version) but I am so pleased with the fit on the back I almost don't care.  The lapels are fun too - very military looking when they are buttoned up, but sort of modern and relaxed when they are down.  I felt awesome when I was wearing it, though it didn't draw any compliments from the peanut gallery.  Well, whatever, I am still really happy with it.  Definitely one of my favorite projects so far this year!

So, without further ado:

My jacket!

Has pockets!

Jacket close-up.

Back of my jacket - the metallic makes it
look more wrinkled than it is in real life.

Swayback issues minimized!

Ah, but why do I call it accidental steampunk?  This is why:

Buttoned up jacket - very steampunk vibe.

Definitely has a more military/industrial feel to it.

Probably going to wear it half buttoned more often,
but I like having this option.

The lining!  Is a panel print poly charmeuse that I got at the Michael Levine Loft.

I tried to used the panels as thoughtfully as possible on the back and on the sleeves.

So there it is!  My new somewhat unplanned and vaguely steampunk-esque jacket.  I am super pleased with the fit, style, and construction.  I think it will be seeing a lot of wear, especially during the fall and early winter months.  Love it!

Fabric Confessions

Ok, so I was doing really well about not buying fabric.  And then there were a bunch of sales on a lot of fabric I had been thinking about for upcoming projects.  At the same time.  So I may have increased my stash a little bit...

From Fashion Fabrics Club:

I am always on the lookout for good quality navy suiting fabrics, and when they had 100% wool on sale for $4.95 I couldn't help but pick up a few yards...

Teal will be a jacket, navy will be a full suit, and olive will be pants and a skirt.

From Fabric Mart:

Ok, so when I got notice of they 40-40 sale (they had 40% off the total purchase for 40 hours), I bought two fabrics that had been sitting in my wishlist for quite a while.  Sadly, one was gone before I ordered it, but I did get this lovely emerald no-wale corduroy:

Lovely color, no wale corduroy.  Thinner than the stuff I used on my jacket,
so it should be easier to sew.  I hope.  I have plans to use this with a Burda envelope pattern.

Then, of course, a few days later I realized I needed to get something else for an upcoming project.  So I made use of free shipping to get a few faux leathers and some modal knit:

Back: Navy modal knit.  Will be used to make shirts to wear at skating practice.
Front: Faux leathers.  The one on the right may have already been used.
Which means you might be seeing a finished item post soon...

From Fabric.com:

I was doing really well resisting the sales, but I had been on the lookout for a nice sweater knit to make that new McCall's peplum cardigan pattern for a while (nothing in my stash seemed quite right).  When they had a sale on sweater knits I went a bit crazy.  But, well, to be fair I do have a lot of sweaters and cardigans that I am planning on sewing up really soon...

The three in the front are much more open weave than I was expecting.
Oh well, I can work with that.  Also, yes, I have a thing for teal.

From JoAnn's:

I went in to get a few things  - cording, thread, but I ended up getting distracted by their half off red tag sales fabric.  I found this lovely wool blend boucle and some pinstriped denim:

Left: denim for pants.  Center: boucle for a jacket.
I already used the silk on the right for piping my teal jacket project.

So, ummm, yeah.  This whole not adding to the stash thing isn't working out so well.  But, well, I did just sew about 10 yards of stash fabric into jackets, and a lot of these knits shouldn't be stash for too long.  So maybe it isn't quite so bad as it seems?  No, no.  With fabric it is always as bad as it seems.

Sewing PSA

Dear sewing enthusiasts,

Please stop sewing over us!

Love,
Your pins

Ouch.

November Sewing Plans

Ok, so I know I wrote my sewing plans a while ago, but I think my new goal is to do a monthly update - that should let me account for the projects I actually finished, see how my whims and fancies have changed and put things on hold in the event of being busy and such.  After working on two jackets almost simultaneously, I think I want to focus on (mostly) easy projects this month.  Right now it is all about adding functional pieces to my winter-ish wardrobe.  As the temperatures are changing I am finding my closet sadly lacking and I need things to wear!  So here are my sewing plans for this month:

(1) Vogue 1365 - Tan Trench Coat for My Sister

Yes, I know I said I wanted easy projects, but this is going to be her birthday gift.  Also, since she is only home intermittently, I will have lots of rest periods in between fittings while sewing this, so I can take my time.  Ideally, I would like to have it done for her birthday this month, but realistically I am thinking it won't get done until December.

(2) McCall's 6844 - Peplum Cardigan

This was my top pick from the latest releases, and the versions I have seen popping up on Pattern Review look fantastic so far.  I will be making at least one, possibly more if it looks as good as I hope it will.

(3) McCall's 5978 - Regular Cardigan

I have had this pattern on my to-make list for a while.  I thought it would be nice to have a more classic cardigan option as well.  Right now I have some long ones I made last year, which I wear a lot.  It seems like this would be a useful wardrobe addition.  Depending on how it turns out, I may make multiple versions of this as well.

(4) BS-11-2013-112 - Knit Dress

Yeah, I pretty much decided I need one of these.  It shouldn't be much effort to sew together, so even if it doesn't look fantastic on me at least it won't be a big time suck.

(5) BWOF-07-2006-118B - Plaid Skirt

This guy is still waiting to get made.  But I really want to get to it!  I just want to go crazy with my serger for a bit first.

(6) BC-2013-0004 - Blue Corduroy Pencil Skirt

I have about a yard of fabric left over from my corduroy jacket.  It is pretty heavyweight, but has a slight amount of stretch.  I am thinking it would be perfect for a first-go at a pencil skirt pattern.  Maybe not this exact pattern, but something very basic in any case.

(7) BS-06-2013-101 - LBD

This guy is also still on my list.  I am hoping that a bunch of knits and easy skirt patterns means I will have time to get to it.

(8) Burda 6990 - Shirts to wear at Skating Practice

I am in need to tops to wear to skating practice as it is starting to get cold, and I have been using the same few long sleeved shirts for around 7 years.  I thought views C and D would be perfect - raglan sleeves and turtlenecks.  My plan is to go down a size (I want them very fitted under the arms for skating practice) and do an FBA to help the fit on the front.  I will also probably make them a bit shorter to end at waist length, so they won't cover the skirts on my practice dresses.

(9) More skating practice dresses

I am also needing more skating dresses.  Seems like most of my practice wardrobe has been biting the dust the past few months - the fabric is starting to go bad (after several years of heavy sweat and washing machines this isn't unexpected) or the elastic is overstretched, or the seams are just falling apart.  I have plenty of fabric, just need to make myself do this!  But now that the need it greater I am feeling a bit more inclined.

Currently on Hold:

I started working on this dress (#114) from the March 2013 Burda:

The fabric has been cut, and the bodice is partially constructed.  I was having issues with the ruching, and, when I finally got that settled, I found that the bodice was now a bit too small (I did a muslin, which fit really well).  I have a lot of work to do to rescue this (and not a lot of extra fabric - that skirt ate up so much!), but I wouldn't even be able to wear it for quite a while yet.  This has the potential of heading into UFO territory, but I am hoping the amount of fabric and time I have sunk in already will motivate me to get back to it after I get a few more functional pieces in the wardrobe.


So, those are my plans for right now.  I am hoping that by sewing a bunch of knits I can have a lot of pieces that will go into instant rotation for the winter wardrobe.  Anybody else have any fun sewing plans for November?

Pattern Review: BWOF-08-2006-101

I have been planning to make this jacket a long time.  A really long time.  Like, I saw this jacket in an online database of old Burda magazines and it caused me to go to Ebay and start buying old issues of the magazine long time.  It took me a while to gather the fabric and notions, and I didn't even decide on which buttons I would use until the last minute, but even still, this jacket has been a long time in coming.

BWOF-08-2006-101

I don't know why, but I just loved the horizontal detail at the waist.  The blue color in the model photo probably didn't hurt much either, and I knew I wanted to try and find a similar color fabric to re-create the look.  I eventually spotted a lovely deep teal corduroy on the Fashion Fabrics Club website and thought it would be perfect.  Ironically, though the main fabric was a cheap online sale purchase, the lining is my lovely (and somewhat expensive) silk charmeuse from my trip to Santa Fe Fabrics during my time in New Mexico for the 2013 Roller Skating Nationals.  Making my jacket even more special, I decided to use buttons from Spector's Store in Shipshewana, which I visited during the 2011 Roller Skating Nationals in Fort Wayne, Indiana.  Yes, having a stash was definitely key in the making of this jacket.

Of course, planning and awesome exciting project isn't exactly the same as actually making one.  I always make a muslin for jackets, but I had to do so many adjustments that this time I actually made two.  And even then I still had to take in the back quite a bit to get the fit to work out the way I wanted.  Then, of course, there was the sewing day from hell.  This definitely wasn't one of those fun easy projects.  But, well, in the end I am fairly pleased with the results, so I guess it was worth the effort.

My teal jacket!

The back took a lot of effort to fit.

Pretty happy with it though.
At least it no longer looks like a grocery sack.

I am going to spend too much time
with my hands in the tiny pockets.

Obligatory staring at my lining photo.
(I LOVE this lining so much.)

Let me show you even more of my awesome lining.

And my piping!  One of my favorite features.
It matches so well!

A close up of the collar detail.  My apologies for bad lighting.
This fabric doesn't like to photograph well. 

A bit hard to see - bit the sleeve vents look pretty good.
Love the little buttons - they match the fabric almost perfectly.

A slightly overexposed photo of the sleeve vent and button.

A view of the guts, including my backstay.

This is the first time I have ever made piping.
Pretty pleased with how it turned out.
Expect to see more piping in the future.

Here is my official Pattern Review:

Pattern Description:  Jacket with asymmetrical notched collar, in-seam and patch pockets, and sleeve vents.

Pattern Sizing:  Burda sizes 36-44.  I used a combination of size 38 at the shoulders, 40 through the waist, and a size 42 over the hips.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  I didn't think they were terrible, but I also don't think they would be the best instructions for a new sewer.  I have gotten used to Burda over the years, and I have seen much worse from them, so I actually didn't mind them.  I did, however, use additional instructions to make a backstay and to double check that I was mitering the sleeve vents correctly.

What did you particularly like/dislike about this pattern?  Likes: Well, I chose it because of all the details - the band across the waist, the in-seam pockets, the sleeve vents, and the interesting collar shape.  I still like all of the details because they make the jacket interesting and unique.  I like that the pattern instructs you to use a lot of interfacing.  It doesn't seem like many newer patterns interface the full front.  Sadly, I think I probably would have been better served by ignoring this - my fabric was already rather thick and probably would have eased better without the added structure.  Dislikes: I thought the fit was rather odd, especially for Burda.  I traced/made another jacket at the same time, and the fit was much better with the other style.  I even ended up using the other jacket to adjust the armscye and sleeves.  This jacket was a bit boxier than I had anticipated, based on the model photos and all the princess seams, so I had to do a lot of adjusting to get it to look anything other than ill fitting and unflattering.  Also, not a huge fan of patch pockets over the breast, so I left those off.

Fabric used:  The shell was cotton corduroy from Fashion Fabrics Club.  It had a slight amount of stretch, and was a pain to deal with on the curves.  I have about a yard leftover - probably going to end up as a very basic skirt because I don't want to do anything too complicated with it.  The lining was a lovely silk charmeuse from Santa Fe Fabrics in New Mexico.  The piping was silk dupioni from Jo-Ann.  The buttons were bought at Spector's Store in Shipshewana, Indiana.  I used cotton muslin for the backstay, and interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply for the structure.

Pattern alterations or design changes you made:  Design changes: I left off the patch pockets over the bust because I did not want them.  I also added piping to the lining because I thought it would be a fun feature.  Alterations:  A lot.  I did alterations for square shoulders, swayback, and full upper arms.  I also raised the armscye and changed the shape of it quite a bit, because it extended too far from the body on the front.  I used another Burda pattern (BS-06-2012-121) to help me alter the shape for the arms because that pattern fit me much better than this one did.  Even after making a 1" swayback adjustment, I had to take in the princess seams on the back another 6/8" because in the stiffer corduroy it just looked too boxy and baggy.  I also added additional interfacing and a backstay as instructed High Fashion Sewing Secrets.

Would you sew this again?  Would you recommend this to others?  I don't think I will be sewing this again.  It is a very distinctive jacket, and walks the line between being casual and a bit more formal.  I think the style looks fine on me, but I don't know if I love it enough to make more of them.  I am happy with the way this turned out - it is quite comfortable and fills a need for a mid-weight fall jacket that my wardrobe has been sorely lacking that past few years.  I would recommend this jacket to others if they like the style, but I would caution that the fit seems a bit odd compared to other Burda patterns and that a muslin is a must!

Conclusion:  I am happy with the way my jacket turned out.  It is a bit special because of the lining fabric and buttons, which I had collected on my travels to skating nationals over the years.  I am also loving the piping detail around the lining.  Something I will have to use again in the future I think.  This is also a pattern I had been wanting to make for quite some time, so I am happy I finally got to it.  It isn't something I think I will be making again in the future (I have a lot of other patterns I want to try), but I expect I this jacket will see a lot of use.  It is surprisingly warm and rather comfortable to wear and move in.  There were difficulties and frustrations along the way (and I can still see the imperfections when I look at it), but all in all I am pleased with my jacket and happy to have it off the sewing table and in my closet.

Whew.  This project took a lot out of me.  I decided sort of mid-month to push it up in my sewing plans to try and enter the Pattern Review lined jacket contest.   And, as with all things sewing related, it is getting finished just under the wire.  So happy I am done!