Blast from the Past: Tara Lipinski

Ok, so while I will unabashedly say that I was in "camp Michelle" for the '98 Olympics, the fact of the matter is Tara Lipinski was the Olympic champion.  She was also a national champion roller skater in her younger days.  So I thought it might be fun to share some of the old videos, if for no other reason than that they amused me for a few minutes.  So here, have at. (NOTE: The first video is another one that can't be embedded, so you will have to click, then choose to "Watch on YouTube" to actually see the 1991 Nationals performance.)

Pattern Review: M6078

After finally finishing my stuff for the wedding, I wanted something fast and easy before I got going on the projects for my sister.  Having only 2 pattern pieces, McCall's pattern 6078 fit the bill.

M6078

I have this wonderful soft drapey blue knit that I really want to make into a top, however, I love it so much I don't want to use it on an experiment.  I wasn't too sure how good this cowl neck would look on me, and everyone at the Pattern Review said this top runs big.  So I thought I would use some of my recent JoAnn stash accumulations for experimental purposes.  One experiment turned out not so good.  The other turned out fairly nice, although maybe not my personal favorite style for me.

Experiment 1: View B (coral and print pictures on envelope)

Experiment 2: View A (pink on envelope)

Ok, Pattern Review people - you are totally right!  This pattern is HUGE!  Based on the envelop sizes, I should be a medium. However, for experiment 1 I cut a small bottom/medium top view B based on the measurements printed on the pattern pieces.  Urg.  The top is waaaaaay huge.  For experiment 2 I cut a small everywhere of view A, and it fits pretty nice, although I think it might have a tendency to fall off of the shoulders, due to the open-ness of the back.  I think if I go back and make views B or C, I would need to make a small all over, possibly with a slight FBA to maintain the drape.

My dressform has slightly lower bust than I do, so the cowl hangs REALLY low on me.

See how big the armhole is?  And the neck is HUGE and gaping in the back.

View A back - very low and open.

I like where the drapiness hits my waist though.

Also, my stripes matched up on the pleating!

Matched on the backside too!

The official review:

Pattern Description: Top A with front/back pleats and drape, top B with front pleats and drape, top C with front drape and contrast loops.

Pattern Sizing: (XS-S-M) and (L-XL).  I made view B with a medium top/small bottom (based on the sizes printed on the pattern sheets), but it was too big.  I then made view A in a small and it turned out pretty good.  I know everyone says it, but it is true - this pattern runs really big!  Usually I am a size 12 with FBA up top, which should correspond to medium in this pattern, but even when I made a size small, I had room to spare.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Heck yes!  I think there were maybe ten steps for view A and seven for view B.  I am not a fast sewer, and I don't have a serger (yet) but it only took me about three hours to make the top, including cutting the fabric.  I think this would be a great project for a beginner - enough detail to not be boring, but really simple to actually make.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the envelop once you were done with it? Yup!  Even though my view B did not turn out well, it still had a nice drape to the front, it was just too big.  My view A looked pretty much exactly like the envelop.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I like that it is actually pretty fast and easy to make.  I like that it looks a lot like the envelope pictures.  I like how the drape is self-facing and gives a neat edge on the top.  I did not like how exaggerated the ease is - ridiculously huge for a knit pattern, especially where the back is mostly open anyway.  I like the fit of view A, but the back is a bit low, so, not appropriate for all occasions.  The open-ness of the back also means that the shirt is a bit prone to falling off at the shoulders.  I also think I need to make the sleeves a tiny bit longer.  View B - I need to try this again in a small, but I do like that the back is covered and this could be a more everyday sort of shirt.  On the other hand, I don't know that this is the most flattering style for me, but I wanted to try something different.

Fabric used: Polyester knit from JoAnn.  Since this was an "experiment" pattern, I didn't want to use my nice stuff yet, but I am actually fairly pleased with the results.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I added +2" length to the bottom of the shirt.  For view A I didn't finish the hems on the sleeves - I liked the length, and the knit is super stable, so I left them.  I think next time I would add a slight bit of length to the sleeves and finish them properly.

Would you sew it again?  Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, I think I might make this again eventually.  I would like to make view A in black for a really classy top that would look good with some nice jeans.  I want to try view B again in a size small, just to make it fit.  I would definitely recommend this pattern.  It is very well drafted, goes together super fast, and would be a great project for a beginner.

Conclusion:  This is a good pattern.  I don't think it will ever be one of my favorite patterns, but I do like it a lot, it is well drafted, and it is fast to make.  I think it would be good for a beginner, but if you decide to make it, go down one size from what you think you should be - it will save a lot of fitting problems!

So, yeah.  I like this pattern, but I am not in love with this pattern.  Maybe it is the stripes I used?  I think it would look super cute with a thick belt and skinny jeans.  I, however, look horrid in skinny jeans.  And I need to wear a belt with my pants just to keep them on, so wearing a belt over the shirt would look dumb if I am wearing one under the shirt.  I really like my shirt on the dressform, but I don't like it as much on me.  I think it needs proper styling, which, as a jeans and t-shirt person, I am sort of inept at.  It is something I shall have to ponder.

In any case, I am super pleased with my construction at the least - stripes match (even at the pleats!)  and I used french seams for the sides.  So in terms of construction this was a total win, even if it isn't going to be a staple of my everyday wardrobe.

Pattern Sales: Butterick, Round 2

JoAnn craft stores will be having yet another $1.99 pattern sale on Butterick this week Thursday June 9 - Saturday June 11.  During the previous Butterick sale, I was thwarted in my attempted to acquire the newest spring patterns.  Hopefully they are in stock by this time, and I can finish off my wish list.  I don't think I am going to get the long dress pattern.  The more I look at it, the more I realize how not good it will look on me.

Dance Skating - The Paso Doble

I will warn you now - this post will be video intense!  I love the Paso, and apparently so does everyone else!  This dance seems to pop up in the World Class event every few years for roller, and fairly often for the ice dance events.  Like the Iceland Tango, there are American AND International versions of this dance.  Both are set patters, but a few of the steps are different, as is the tempo.  For the International and Ice versions, the dance is skated at 112 beats per minute, but for American it is "only" skated to a 100 peats per minute tempo (if you have ever done this dance for a full record you will understand the quotations).  At either tempo, I really like the music for the Paso - fast and energetic, it always makes me want to skate.  Aside from the music, there are a few steps that are different between International and American.  You will notice the different leg movements on the slides, and that the International version has a swing before the lady does a mohawk turn at the end of the dance, where the American version has a change of edge (no swing) and the lady does a mohawk turn.  And, of course, the difference between the International and American style running steps (in International the second running step crosses behind the employed skate in a pushing actions, in American this is improper technique) and two foot turns (International has the "in-step" mohawk turn where American has the heel-to-heel mohawk).

Pattern Review: Vogue 1051, Or The Search for the Perfect Pant

So, as may have been obvious, I have recently been ooooh-ing and ahhhhh-ing over the Burda Style Magazine pants patterns.  I would really really love to be able to make the perfect pant.  I have never been able to find pants that fit.  Too long or too short.  If they fit my thigh then the waistband falls down to my hips.  Anything else won't fit over my knees.  Sitting down could cause permanent mental scarring for those behind me.  Belts are a necessity and a staple in the wardrobe.  I can pull many of my pants on and off without undoing the buttons or zippers.  So, pants are a problem.  

On the other hand, I feel really uncomfortable with my legs uncovered, so while skirts and dresses could be a solution, I just don't really wear them often.  I think this started with the skating - I wasn't comfortable walking around showing off all of my bruising.  Then I got sick and gained a lot of weight, so I wanted my legs covered then as well.  Also, many of my college labs required clothing with good coverage, and it developed into me just being uncomfortable in anything other than pants.  So, really, finding a pants pattern that fits well and looks good would be far more useful to me than many of the other things I could make.  It's fun to plan cute party dresses and pretty coats, but in terms of making something I would get a lot of use from, pants are a priority.  My first step in this journey: Vogue 1051.

Vogue 1051.

This was one of my first Vogue pattern acquisitions when I started on my pattern stashing.  I liked the style of these pants, and thought they might make a good first attempt at a pants pattern.  Since I had never made pants before, my first attempt is more of a "wearable muslin" - I used $2/yard polyester from JoAnn, but I did line them because the fabric was both rough and shear.  I left off the pockets, because I didn't want to spend the time on the fiddly bits to find that the fit was poor.  Overall though, I really like the outcome.  Here are my pants:

My first pants!

And here is the official pattern review:

Pattern Description: Slightly flair legged pants with contour waistband, fly front, and welt pockets, with optional turned cuffs.

Pattern Sizing: (4-6-8-10) and (12-14-16-18).  I made a size 16 without any major size adjustments.  I picked a size 16 based on my hip measurements, and, despite the pattern telling me that the 18 would be the correct size for my waist, I used a 16 everywhere and it was still too large (mostly due to my swayback I suspect).

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes, I think so.  I did not attempt the welt pockets, mostly because this was my first attempt at pants, the fabric was cheap and not worth the effort, and I was hoping to have these ready to wear to an event if they turned out well enough (which they did).  I did use the fly front instructions, and I thought that turned out rather well though.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, I think so.  I did not use the best fabric and I left off the welt pockets, but the overall shape was very similar to the pattern envelope.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  This is the best "straight from the envelope" pattern I have ever used.  I didn't make any fit/sizing changes and these pants look much better than most RTW pants I have tried on.  I really like the waistband - the wider band seemed to fit me fairly well.  I even like the turned cuffs - not something I usually like, but thought they looked pretty good on this pattern.  I had no issues with wrinkles or pulling around the crotch either.  Things I didn't like: I had gaping issues in the back, which I didn't realize until after the waistband was fully sew on, so I took a wedge/dart in the center back of the waistband.  This isn't the most elegant solution, but since these were basically a "wearable muslin" I wasn't feeling the energy to undo the entire band to fix the pattern at the side seams.  I like the overall shape of the pants - they sit a bit higher on me than the model, but I like that.  The fit nicely through the thigh, but aren't as fitted in the knee as the model in the picture.  I think this is mostly due to my overdeveloped/muscular/protruding thighs so I would probably taper future pants in more at the knee.  I am 5'7" and the pants as are were a perfect length for flats (which I mostly wear) but would need extra length if they were to be worn with heels.

Fabric used: Cheap polyester with poly lining from JoAnns.  Didn't want to use my nice fabric for a first run through with the pants.  It has no stretch, and doesn't breathe, so is a little uncomfortable to wear for long periods (especially while sitting), but this is definitely a fabric issue, not a pattern issue.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I did not make the welt pockets, because, as mentioned, I didn't think it was worth the effort for a first time run through.  Since the fabric was a little too see-through, and I wanted to wear the pants for a one time event, I did line the pants, which isn't called for in the instructions, but isn't too difficult to figure out (it helped to look at some of my RTW pants that are now too large to figure out where the lining should be attached).

Would you sew it again?  Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will probably sew this pattern again.  I am on a quest to find a perfect pants pattern, and this was my first try.  I want to make several of my other patterns to find the best style and fit for me, but I did like these pants and would like to make them up in better fabric with the welt pocket detail in the future.  I probably won't get to it for a while, but if/when I do I will try to provide an update.  I would recommend this pattern - I had a great fit right out of the envelope, and I think the style could be quite flattering on many people.  The instructions are pretty straightforward, so this could be a great first pants pattern, especially if you leave off the welts and focus on the fit of the pants without worry about the pocket details.

Conclusion: I really really like this pattern!  It is not quite TNT territory yet, but it is in contention and is definitely one of my favorite patterns that I have tried so far.  I even got a compliment while wearing these pants (from someone who didn't know I made them), despite the fact that they are made from cheap-looking fabric.  I love that I can wear them without a belt, and plan to make these again with the necessary pattern tweaks in the future.

Here are some more pictures:

Side view - you can see my fairly extreme swayback and protruding thighs.

The back - the wrinkles are caused by sitting, poor fabric, and the wedge I took out of the center back waistband.  The pants looked really good in the back before I took the wedge, but fit better in the waist after.  With a long-ish shirt you can't see the wrinkles anyway, and it helped me figure out how to fix the pattern for future attempts.

A close-up of the cuff detail.

Overall, I am pleased with these pants, but I think I can do better.  I may try some of the other fly front tutorials available online, and I want to test out some of my other pants patterns in my quest for the perfect pants.  Here are the patterns I really want to try out in the near future:

Another Vogue - this one has belt loops, regular pockets, and a center back seam in the waistband.

The other Alice + Olivia pattern - Vogue 2907.

I also want to try these pants, which have pockets, fly front, but no waistband:

Vogue 1143 - Who am I kidding, I want the whole thing.

Then there are all of the Burda patterns I want to try:

BS 04-2011-104 - this is similar to the Vogue, but with a smaller waistband and belt loops.

BS 04-2011-120 - Not sure about these, but I saw a version on another blog and it looked worthy of trying them out.

BS 04-2011-131 - Love these!

BS 06-2011-110 - Want to try these for a more casual "jeans" style pants.

I also want to obtain and try the Jalie jeans and trouser patterns, but what with the Canadian postal strike, now is probably not the best time to order those patterns.  I guess I will just have to test out some of these other pants in the mean time....

Second Year Sewiversary

Another year of sewing come and gone.  I bought my sewing machine about two years ago, with the only goal of making skating costumes.  You can read about the journey here, but suffice it to say that this year more than last year has truly been the "start" of my sewing obsession.  Where I once only wanted to make costumes and frivolous things, I now want a wardrobe of "me-made" items (and, no, I won't be participating in Me-Made-June because I would litterally have to toggle between three shirts for a month.  Eww.  Maybe next year?).  I plan on doing pattern/fabric stash stats at the end of the calendar year (I have been stashing a lot for fall/winter clothes), but I will give a rundown of second year accomplishments and third year goals.  In January when I do my stash stats, I plan to do a 6 month check-up on the goals and review my favorite pieces of the year (since most of my favorite pieces haven't been reviewed yet - I know, I am a slacker).

Second Year Accomplishments:

(1) I made real clothes that I can wear in public!

(2) I made pants!

(3) I made two lined coats!

(4) I found out what Burda is.  I found a way to order individual Burdas.  I traced a pattern and made it.  I fell in love with the drafting on Burda patterns.

(5) I realized that there are sewing books and they are useful!  And, there are a lot in used bookstores to be had for cheaps.  Some methods work better than my self-devised processes, some not so much.  Reading books has helped a lot with my sewing progress, though it has slowed it some because I was doing a lot more reading than sewing for a few months.

(6) I found the sewing blog-o-sphere and PatternReview!  So many great places for inspiration, fun stories, stash confessions, tips, tricks, and tutorials.  More than the books, it has opened my eyes to how technique and quality can and should be achieved.

(7) I am learning about fabric!  This is a work in progress, but I can now run my hand over a bunch of haphazard bolts and stop at the ($5/yard) silk.  I am slowly learning about quality of fabric and why it matters to the outcome of a project.  With skating costumes it was all about the look, the sparkle, and the stretch.  Dealing with real-world cloth is very different.  I am still drawn to the bright (and shiny) but I am also learning to appreciate the other fabrics in the store, and their uses.

(8) I am learning to like online fabric shopping!  Obviously, in-person shopping is much better.  Touch, see, drape the fabric.  It is more fun.  It is much easier to see if you want to buy it.  However, most of the sewing stores near me do not carry a wide range of good (read: non-polyester) fabrics, and the one that does charges very very high prices.  I live in a quilter's paradise, but the home fashion sewer - not so much.  I was very against online fabric shopping, but so far my online purchases have been fabulous.  I either get swatch samples or the stores have great return policies, and usually I am very happy with my order.  I will only order interfacing/underlining(silk organza) online because the quality is better and the prices are lower.  Finding hair canvas in person?  Pft.  Yeah right.

(9) The previous two lead into this one: I am growing a stash!  Of the fabric variety, that is.  My previous stash was 99% lycra spandex.  It now has more varied options.  The stash has come in handy more than a few times this past year, and I really love having one.

(10) I am learning about fitting and pattern adjustments!  And, of course, growing a pattern stash as well.  This too is fun.  I go shopping in my virtual theoretical closet of patterns and then the fabric stash and then (usually) have something fun and fabulous to wear (that actually fits!).  I loves it!

Second Year Failures:

(1) I had my first UFO (unfinished object).  It was a costume, which I was working on for an event I didn't end up going to.  It was a not happy time, and I just lost the desire to finish the costume.  It is in a bag, and waits to be completed.  I am not sure I love all of the fabric I have waiting for it, so we shall see what happens.  The UFO was the transition from costume sewing to clothing sewing, so maybe it was really a good thing?  In any case, I want to make it, but I just don't know if I want to make it right now.

(2) I had my first real wadder experience.  Simplicity 4014 was not happy in so many ways.  I had been planning this dress for about 4 months, so the failure was sort of tragic.  However, the resulting second dress is fabulous (one of my favorite sewn objects so far), so oh well.  The fab dress will be revealed and reviewed after the wedding.  And I got to use/learn about the invisible zipper foot.  So that is good.

(3) I had a skating costume total fail.  When I make practice costumes, I don't expect perfection, because I am usually trying something new.  However, my competition dresses have usually turned out really well.  But I overestimated the stretch of a black lace fabric, and, well, it just wasn't useable.  I think if I remove the sleeves, it can be a practice dress, but it was just not suitable for competition.  I also usually start with a vision and the dress gets made and life is good.  My other competition dress did not want to be made into my vision.  I loved the fabric (love the color), and the style was great, but it just wasn't working with my decorations.  I ended up buying completely different rhinestones, and doing the design after I had made the dress (I like to have the whole thing planned out first - so the beading makes sense with the style of the dress).  But again, all's well that ends well?  I love both of the dresses I have ended up with, even thought they aren't exactly what I wanted in the first place.  These will be posted after the summer skating meets.

Goals for Year Three:

(1) I want to make more pants!  Especially from Burda, now that I have the sizing figured out, and muslin fabric.  This includes making jeans!

(2) I want to make a fully tailored wool winter coat for my sister.  Recent toy purchases (my ham and sausage, er, seam roll), non-polyester fabric, and a summer of sewing should make it possible.

(3) I want to order more fabric online, so I can work with better quality materials.  After using "the good interfacing" I understand why some people seem like such fabric snobs.  I don't think I am there yet (don't know if I will ever be), but I do want to use special/good materials for special projects.  Sometimes good enough is good enough, and sometimes it isn't.

(4) I want to make more shirts and clothes I can wear during normal days.

(5) I want to make something with boning (a corset or a dress).

(6) I want to make more jackets and coats!  I have been wearing sweatshirts since forever, and I want to progress to a more "adult" (aka non-undergrad) look.

(7) I want to make some sort of costume now that I know more about pattern fitting and techniques.  I want to make something that is solidly constructed, and doesn't start ripping at the seams after two wears because of poor construction and fabric choice.

(8) I want to make a raincoat.  I don't know if it will happen this year.  But a raincoat would be more useful than many other coat variants, even if the other ones are more fun.

(9) I want to make pajama pants!  I know, I know.  Easy, right?  This is like everyone's first sewing project.  I usually just want to make more fun things.  But right now all of my current sleepwear permanently bags at the knees, falls down the waist, and is starting to look threadbare (the little elastic fuzz is sticking out of the fabric).  They are all about six years old.  They need to be done.  Hopefully soon.

(10) Read, learn, sew more!

Pattern Review: BS 02-2011-106

I have been doing a lot of talking about Burda lately, but I haven't shown any of my projects.  I thought it was about time I showed off my first Burda project ever.  I discussed my introduction to Burda here.  When I got the February magazine, there weren't a lot of things I wanted to make, but the more I look at the styles, the more I find to like.  In any case, since I had heard how traumatizing sewing Burda was, I decided to make my first project something simple.  What could be more simple than this top?

The top - Burda Style 02-2011-106B.

I found the softest knit in the flatfold section of the "local" non-JoAnn fabric store.  Now, as I have stated before, I really can't wear prints.  I just can't.  I look ridiculous, like I am in my pajamas.  However, this is the softest fabric ever.  It was only $2/yard, so I got two yards.  I couldn't help it.  I loved it.  It was sooooooooo soft.  While sitting at the pattern books showing my mom the skating patterns I was contemplating (for new sleeve options), I induced they envy of every passer-by who wanted to touch my pretty knit fabric.  When I got it I wasn't sure what to do with it, and I figured that with my trepidation over the pattern, it might be a good fabric for my first experiment with Burda, because I wouldn't be absolutely devistated over the loss.  


I am happy to say that the project turned out well.  Despite the fact that I kept repeating "This has no seam allowances, this has no seam allowances" while tracing, I barely caught myself before cutting out the fabric without any allowances!  Whew!  Disaster averted.  And other than the sewing machine trying to eat my fabric while I was hemming the second sleeve (why is it ALWAYS the last step that gets bungled?), it went together really easily.  While I still don't think I can really wear this in public without looking a little strange (it would be better in a 3/4 or sleeveless pattern perhaps?  Or maybe it needs more accessorizing?  A vest to break up the pattern?), the actual Burda pattern worked out super well.  I love the drafting on the sleeves, and all-in-all a great simple long sleeve shirt pattern.  And, it is sooooooo comfy and soft.  So here is the finished product:

My first Burda ever!

Now for the official review!


Pattern Description: A simple long sleeve t-shirt.


Pattern Sizing: Burda sizing 34-42.  I made a size 40.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes!  There are two versions of this in the magazine - one with stripes, and one in florals.  Because of the type of fabric used, my shirt looks a little more like the striped version in terms of visible ease.


Were the instructions easy to follow? Actually, yes!  Other than never telling me to sew up the side seams (I sewed them up just before setting in the sleeves), the instructions were very clear.  Granted, this is a simple pattern I could have figured out on my own, but I figured for my first Burda pattern I should at least try to follow them to see what all the fuss was about.  Now, some of the terminology is a bit... odd.  You can tell the instructions are translated, but there wasn't anything that was totally puzzling.  And, this may sound really odd, but I actually sort of like the Burda instructions - they are like a cookbook.  They say what to do but not how to do it.  I usually try to follow instructions (at least on a first sew-through with a pattern), and the basic outline of procedures left me feeling more open to trying new techniques.  I also think the Burda instructions have practical finishing methods.  These instructions included the use of a twin needle to finish the hems.  I had never used a twin needle before, but I love the results!


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I loved the sleeve!  The drafting is top notch.  I totally understand why so many people love the Burda patterns.  I have a bit of a full upper arm, but I had no problem with these sleeves - they fit great without being too tight or too lose.  The whole shirt is a perfect blend of easy comfort while being just fitted enough to not look sloppy.  


Fabric Used: Mystery knit from the flat-fold bargain section.  I think it might be some sort of cotton or rayon knit (it really doesn't feel like polyester).  It is so incredibly soft.  I had my reservations about the print, but the softness and $2/yard price tag won me over.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I added 2" to the length, because I have such a long torso.  I also used clear elastic to stabilize the shoulder seams, but other than that, no changes.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes!  I am so making this again in the future.  I think next time I may take it in slightly at the waist, because I have the swayback and small-ish waist (really it is "average," but I always feel like patterns have too much ease there.  I would also probably try a 3/4 length sleeve because I tend to like that length better than full-length sleeves.  I would totally recommend this pattern!  It is the perfect first Burda pattern - only 3 pieces to trace, not too much fitting, simple instructions.


Conclusion: This pattern has started my infatuation with Burda.  My only issue is with the fabric choice - I don't think the print particularly suits me, but I love wearing this shirt because it is so soft.  I am not sure how much I will wear this shirt out and about - but it is so incredibly soft and comfy, so it will definitely get use around the house.  Overall this pattern is a win, I learned a new technique (how to use my twin needle), and I have a shirt that I love to wear.  Highly recommended.


Ok, some more pictures!

The back.

Twin needle stitching and bias binding around the neck.

Twin needle stitching around the hem.

The fabric print.  Perhaps a bit too busy for me, but so soft and comfy!