What I Have Been Up To And New Fabric!

So I haven't been posting too much lately, but I have been sewing.  About 4-12 hours a day, actually.  It seems like the more sewing I do, the more I have to do.  So much sewing, but not for me.  Sigh.  I mean, I am grateful for the business, and I am more than willing to do the work, but I also have so many awesome stash fabrics that want to be worn dang it!  Though at this rate I won't be doing much garment sewing until July.  Definitely will be doing skating costumes almost non-stop for the next three months.  With a few garments for my sister thrown in for good measure...

I have also been keeping up with my blog reading, but I haven't been writing a lot of comments.  Or writing much of anything on my own blog either.  Though there are a few things I will hopefully have time to post in the near future: (1) The Russian Burda has been taunting me with the page for the May Burda magazine, but none of the model photos have been posted yet.  I will continue to check back several times a day until the preview is up though...  (2) I also have a mostly finished birthday dress (that missed being done for my birthday), but I need to fix the wonkiest zipper insertion ever.  With any luck I can do a pattern review post on the Butterick pattern I used soon.  (3) Since I have been doing so much sewing of skating costumes I have been working to finish my tutorial posts.  I still need to take some pictures, but with any luck I should have those going up by the end of the month.  (4) I have also been wanting to do a skating update and posting more videos and more discussions about equipment, but I haven't had a lot of time to get things written.  (5) I have at least one more book review to post soon too.

Ah, yeah.  One of the conundrums of having a sewing blog - usually the amount of blogging is inversely proportional to the amount of sewing.  So I am feeling very behind in my posting.  But at least I have been getting sewing done!  Even if it is for other people.  On the upside of that, doing all of this sewing for other people meant I had to take a trip to the LA garment district, where, of course, I had to stop at the Michael Levine Loft, home of the $2.50 per pound price tag.  I didn't find as much awesomeness as last year, but I did find a few fun fabrics to add to my stash:

Top Left: Teal ribbed double knit.  Possibly enough for a long sleeved dress for winter?
Bottom Left: Striped (rayon?) jersey.  Only enough for a tank top for summer.
Right: Soft sweater knit.  I might have enough for a drapey cardigan and a cozy winter top.

Left: White spandex (for skating stuff).
Right: Beautiful jacket-weight woven of mystery fiber content.
It has a lovely drape and is so soft.  The color and texture are gorgeous too.
And it was so cheap!  Fabric love.

And my splurge - an embroidered pannel fabric that I just couldn't leave in LA:

So pretty!  Photos don't even begin to describe...

Sadly, these fabrics are going to have to be stashified for a while.  Though since a lot of them are winter-weight knits that might be ok.  Either way... it is time for me to get back to stitching the glitter stretch velvet!

Pattern Review: BS-03-2013-109

I feel like I have been chained to my sewing machine!  Last year I was asked to make a few skating costumes for other people, which I did gladly because I was quite happy to pick up some extra cash with my sewing.  This year - business has increased tenfold!  Well, not really, but the people who have asked me to sew for them are wanting lots of outfits.  So I have been working in my sewing area almost non-stop the past few weeks.  I have been doing mostly pattern drafting, so not too many finished items yet, but working like crazy none-the-less.  Which is why it was only a matter of time before I gave in to temptation and made something for myself.  I wanted to make something fast and easy, and I have been enviously coveting all of the fabulous lace skirts that have been popping up on other sewing blogs over the past few weeks, so I jumped on the simple lace skirt from the March Burda:

BS-03-2013-109 - White Lace Skirt

Close-up of Burda's version of the skirt.

I made a quick muslin and it was fairly evident that my skater's thighs were going to need a bit more room, but otherwise the skirt was an almost perfect fit right away.  It was fairly quick to sew together, and in the end I have a great "lace" skirt that is right on trend for the spring:

My version of the lacey white skirt!

Love the length and they way it hangs.
(Oh, and can you tell my legs haven't seen the sun in months?)

The back.

Side seam with invisible zipper.

Close-up of my cotton eyelet "lace like" fabric.

The inside.  You can see my ribbon waist stay on the left, and the seam binding.

Here is my official pattern review:

Pattern Description:  A-line skirt with waist darts for fitting and ribbon waistband.

Pattern Sizing:  Burda sizes 38-44.  I cut a size 40 on the waist and graded out to a 44 on the hips.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, I thought the instructions were decent for Burda.  I changed the construction a bit though, because I didn't want the seam allowances to be visible through the outer fabric.

Did it look like the photo/drawing when you were done with it?  Yes!  I was really inspired by the lace skirt in the Burda magazine, and I wanted to make one as close to the original as possible.  However, I thought that a lace skirt might be a bit impractical, so I used embroidered cotton eyelet to get a similar effect with less likelihood of snagging.

What did you particularly like/dislike about this pattern?  Likes:  I love that this is drafted for use with a lace that has a scalloped edge - it would also be great for a boarder print.  I also love how simple the skirt is - just four darts and the side seams, yet it is enough to create a nice fit.  I am also a fan of the A-line style - I think it is rather slimming.  Dislikes: I think this skirt might be just a tiny bit too high waisted, which I changed a bit with my construction decisions.

Fabric used:  Embroidered cotton eyelet for the outside "lace" portion of the skirt, and acetate lining (from the recent $1.99 Vera Wang sale at Fabric Mart).  I also used an invisible zipper and a ribbon for the waistband.

Pattern alterations or design changes you made:  As far as alterations go, I added an extra 1/2" of width to the skirt front piece below the dart so that it would lie more smoothly over my thighs (ah, skater thighs...).  I also changed the construction a bit.  First, I treated the outside and lining fabric as one piece rather than separately  so that the seams would all be on the inside of the skirt and not visible through the eyelet.  Also, I changed the ribbon waistband into more of a waist stay.  Since the skirt is rather high waisted to begin with, I didn't want to add to the height by adding the ribbon waistband, so instead I flipped it to the inside and used it as a stabilizing waist stay.  Otherwise I made the skirt as instructed.

Would you sew this again?  Would you recommend it to others?  Yes!  I really like the way this skirt turned out, and this might be heading to a TNT pattern status.  I would love to find a great boarder print to use with this pattern in the future.  Or, of course, for more lace skirts.  I would highly recommend this to others - the fit is great, it is easy to make, and the style is quite flattering.  Very easy to make a great on-trend skirt!

Conclusion:  Love this pattern!  A lovely simple pattern that really lets the fabric be the star.  I expect I will be wearing my skirt a lot this spring, and I also think I will be using this pattern again in the future.

Newsflash: New McCall's Patterns Announced

McCall's is ready for it to be summer!  And they aren't afraid to let us know it, especially with the cheesy painted beach background they decided to use for their latest pattern releases.  All in all... meh.  I am not too interested in most of the new designs.  Mostly because I feel like they are shapes I have seen before, or that I have something similar in one of my Burda magazines.  And, well, since these are summer looks, most of them have the oversized baggy easy I try so hard to avoid.  So I don't think there will be much for me in this release, but let's take a look anyway.  Here are some of the more exciting options for summer:

M6759 - Summer is here!  Swimsuit pattern with various one- and two-piece options.

M6751 - Tank top with criss-cross strap details.

M6756 - Fashion Star shorts (in super short and Bermuda lengths).
The lace short seems to be a huge trend right now - I have already seen
a ton of girls wearing them out and about...

M6745 - A nice halter dress.  Similar to other patterns I already own, but cute.

M6740 - Button front dress.  Can't decide if I actually like it, but the stripes make it interesting.

M6754 - I love the chevron pattern created by the seaming and the stripes!

M6752 - The knit dress is ok, but sort of boring.
But this pattern does contain some other interesting pieces...

M6752 Line Drawings - I am loving the view C top!  Might have to get this pattern for that reason.

M6750 - Palmer/Pletsch Shirt pattern. Lots of darts to create a perfect fit.

M6757 - Palmer/Pletsch pants and skirt pattern.  Nice classic shape with lot of darts for fitting.

Of course, with the good there was a lot of not so good...

M6760 - Fashion Star dress and jumpsuit.  Now, I love a wide-legged pant, but those legs are ginormous!

M6743 - Draped dress.  To be fair, it is also pictured with a belt,
but even that doesn't do much to cut down on the volume.
Also, I think this would be a great summer maternity dress,
but if you aren't pregnant, why would you want to look like you are?

M6746 - A Generation Next dress pattern.  I hate to say it,
but the way the hem is wadded up makes me think of a giant diaper.

M6753 - Oversized tunic pattern.  The plaid boucle and straight cut
does nothing to create any sort of a figure.

M6739 - Sack dress extreme!  It really does look like it was fashioned out of a giant sack.

Finally, a few fun patterns of note:

M6770 - An over the top costume-ish pattern.
Looks a bit crazy with the jacket, bustle, and skirt all together.

It also comes with culottes!   

I have to admit I really like the lace-up back to the jacket though.
Might have to get it for my costume pattern collection.

M6764 - The doll clothes are super cute!  Love their little jackets...

So, what do you all think?  Is it summer time?  Are you ready to be making bathing suits and tank tops?  What do you all think about the latest patterns?  Anything you can't live without?  Or are you going to stick to sewing from your stash?  Did I miss anything exciting from the full preview?  Are we sick of giant draped sack patterns yet?  Feel free to discuss in the comments!

Burda May Early Preview Posted

The Russian Burda website has posted the early preview for May.  I have to say that, although it is early to tell yet, I am excited.  Or, well, at least I am not bored.  Which means there is potential for me to be excited.  May is typically the "spring dress" issue, and this year looks like no exception:

Pretty!  Maybe not something I would sew for myself, but pretty nonetheless.

Want!  I haven't really been on board with the whole maxi dress thing,
and I know the top on this is pretty basic and fairly low cut,
but something about this dress just makes me want one.

Hmmmm... Not sure if I am a fan?  Maybe I need to see the line drawing...

Also not sure if I would sew this for me, but it is a nice spring dress.

Aside from the dresses there wasn't too much of note in the preview, but here are a few other things to look at...

Ruffle skirt.  I think I have other ruffle skirts I like better, but this might be of interest.
I will wait for the line drawing to pass judgement.

What???  A Burda bikini pattern that doesn't look like a diaper?
Actually, the top provides more bust coverage than many of their dresses do.
I think I approve...

Usually I am not a fan of the sack tops, but for some reason I find this one oddly appealing?
Perhaps it is just a nice photograph...
Or maybe the sunny weather has me thinking of summer already.

I can fly I can fly I can fly!

Boring.

It is just so drab.  And ill fitting.  Not a fan.

Not really a fan of the skirt, but I may find use for the top pattern.

I know they want me to look at the kid, but I am looking at the back of that shirt!
Crossing the fingers that it is a pattern (but probably not).

All in all May looks like it will at least be better than April.  So, what do you all think?  Are you excited for the May dresses?  Or are you bored by the baggy beach wear and cover ups?  Anyone else want to cross their fingers on the knit top in the kids photo?  Feel free to discuss in the comments!

Newsflash: New Jalie Patterns

The Canadian pattern company Jalie just announced their latest patterns on their main website.  Jalie offers a nice selection of activewear patterns, but many of their tops/jeans/jackets are super popular as well.  Personally I find most of the latest patterns for every day clothes to be a bit boring, but there are a few new leotard patterns that might be of interest to the skating seamstresses out there.

J3241 - A nice leotard pattern with contrast fabrics.

J3240 - Another leotard pattern with a skating skirt attached.

J3239 - Leotard pattern with leggings attached.

J3247 - Athletic crop top and shorts.

J3242 - More athletic undergarment patterns.

For the seamstress who isn't interested in athletic gear, there are a some regular clothing patterns:

J3248 - A draped cardigan pattern.

J3246 - Maxi dress.

J3245 - Raglan t-shirt and tank top pattern.

J3243 - Elastic waisted pants.

And, because it is so hilarious:

J3244 - Footie PJ pattern!

Personally I prefer my Kwik Sew leotard patterns to the Jalie patterns I have used, but I do like that all of the sizes are included with Jalie, so if I need to sew for small children I won't have to look for a different pattern.  I might order the activewear patterns at some point in the future, but I think I can pass on the everyday clothes.  Either because I find them sort of boring (like the maxi dress) or I have something comprable already.  Has anyone else sewn with Jalie?  How do you like their patterns?  Do any of the new ones tempt you?  Feel free to discuss in the comments!