Pattern Review: BS-11-2013-112 Teal/Black Plaid Knit Dress

When the November Burda came out I was quite taken with this simple cowl neck knit dress:

BS-11-2013-112

I had already made an attempt at a knit cowl dress a while ago - using the ubiquitous Vogue 1250 - which pretty much ended in a quasi-salvaged failure.  So I was a bit more cautious heading into a second attempt at this sort of close-fitting style.  But I think the Burda pattern has a few benefits over the Vogue pattern - (1) the cowl drape isn't quite as deep, and is designed to work well in a thicker double knit and (2) this pattern instructs you to line the entire dress in a stretch mesh/knit lining.  My fabric choices definitely helped this dress over the Vogue attempt, but I also think the way the cowl is drafted make this pattern much more wearable as well (ie, you won't flash the world if you bend at the waist).  The only thing I liked better about the Vogue pattern was the seam at the back waist (which helped with fitting), so I added some darts to the back of this pattern because it was a bit baggy in the back as drafted.  Overall though, it was a quick and easy pattern to make, and I love the way my version turned out:

My dress!  It is perfect to wear under cardigans and jackets.

The dress itself has no sleeves - which isn't the best for winter,
but perfect for layering, especially since it isn't too cold here yet.

The back - I added darts to help the fit.
Camera flash makes it look more wrinkly than it is in real life.

I did my best to match the plaid stripes on the side.

Close up of the cowl detail.  Also - FBA for the win!

Apologies for the not so great photographs - winter hasn't been terribly cold yet, but the sun does go down before 5pm, so I am dealing with photo taking in the dark.  In any case, here is my official pattern review:

Pattern Description: Cowl neck knit dress with lining.

Pattern Sizing: Burda sizes 34-42.  I traced a size 38 at the shoulders and did an FBA.  Usually I trace a size 40, but I have been noticing that this tends to produce a bit more gaping at the neckline than I would like.  So I think might try the 38/FBA for knits and close fitting garments in the future.  I graded out to a 40 at the waist and approximately a 44/46 (larger than the available sizes) at the hips and skirt section.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Mostly easy, though I did find the section about the sewing the lining shoulders a bit confusing because I wasn't exactly sure how much to overlap the cowl facing.  I also thought the description for sewing the arm openings was a bit more wordy than it needed to be.  Overall the instructions weren't the best, but weren't terrible.  The dress is pretty easy to sew, so I don't think the poor instructions are that problematic in the construction process.

Did it look like the photo/drawing when you were done with it?  Yes!  The cowl and proportions looked quite like the model photo.  I am very pleased with the way the finished dress looks.

What did you particularly like/dislike about this pattern?  Likes:  I like the style, and that it was very easy to sew.  It probably took me about 4 hours to make, start to finish, and that long only because I sewed the hem in place by hand as instructed by the magazine.  I really loved the depth of the cowl drape - enough to be dramatic, but not so deep that it would become indecent.  I also really like that this pattern is lined - it helps the dress lie smoothly without clinging in an awkward way.  Dislikes:  The instructions could have been slightly better, and the back is a bit big and boxy.

Fabric used:  Mystery double knit that I found at the Michael Levine Loft.  This is quite soft, so I expect it is some sort of rayon/poly/lycra mix, but I can't be entirely sure.  The lining is a bit of left over stretch mesh (illusion) that I had from a skating costume.  All in all the materials probably cost me less than $10.

Pattern alterations or design changes you made:  I added an extra inch of length to the bottom of the dress, I did an FBA to help fit the bust, and I added darts to the back of the dress because it was a bit baggy without the additional shaping.  Otherwise the pattern is made as drafted and instructed in the magazine.

Would you sew this again?  Would you recommend this to others?  Yes and yes!  I really like the way this dress turned out.  Easy to sew, comfy to wear - this is a great dress.  I think it is especially great for winter - it is perfect for styling with tights or leggings and a great jacket.  I could definitely see myself sewing another one of these in the future, especially if I find a nice thick knit in a fun print.

Conclusion:  Great pattern!  Love the style - very easy to incorporate into a wardrobe.  The pattern may require a few alterations (such as back darts), but it is so easy to make that I think minor fit alterations shouldn't be a deterrent.  This definitely isn't a wow piece, but it is a great addition to my wardrobe and I expect it will be seeing a lot of use in the near future.

Yay - I finished a project on my November sewing list!  I haven't been feeling the mojo much lately, but I am hoping it will pick up during the remainder of the month.  Still have a lot of projects I am wanting to get to, but with the holidays approaching I am going to have to be a bit more strategic with my sewing time to get to them all...  Oh well, at least I can enjoy wearing my new dress in the meantime.

Newsflash: December Burda Preview Posted

The preview of the final Burda magazine issue of 2013 has been posted to the Russian website.  It seems like a lot of the recent issues have produced a rather lackluster response (except November, which was in general quite well received), but I am happy to say that I think Burda is going to end the year with a bang!  I don't know that there is really any one stand-out pattern, and I do question some of Burda's fabric choices, but I feel like there are a lot of strong pieces in this issue, and I have to say I am quite excited for it to arrive!

First, there were quite a few jackets in this issue:

I really love this plaid trench coat!

I might not be such a fan of the giant pockets, but I really like the rest of the details.

I really like the collar and the contrast with the print on this jacket.

I think it doesn't quite have the impact made all in the same fabric though.

... and ugly 70s paisley print is definitely to be avoided.

The line drawing shows a lot of snazzy details though.

I actually really like the overall shape of this coat.
Reminds me a bit of the first lady knockoff coat Butterick had in a recent release.

Love the in-seam pockets and the slight flare of the hem.

I actually think the pocket details on this jacket are quite cute.

Don't know how I feel about Burda's use of sequins here... might be a bit much?
I think I prefer it in the plainer fabric shown above.

I sort of like the use of lace here, it is an interesting hybrid of a jacket and a cardigan.

I am torn on this one - I sort of like the dramatic sleeves...

... but I definitely get a bathrobe vibe with the contrast collar piece here.

With such a basic shape I think fabric could make all the difference.

This issue also had its fair share of pretty dresses:

Ok, so this dress looks a bit cheap and wrinkly in the garment photo.

But the line drawing is super interesting.

And on the model it looks pretty awesome.

The drape looks better in the fabric, so I am thinking that
this could be a good pattern, depending on the fabric choice.

Pretty!  I love the elegant drape on the top of this dress.

Though I am not sure how I feel about this overlay dress... looks a bit inexpensive.

I think it looks a bit better with sleeves..

But really the under-dress is the best part!

I am liking the seam line placement on this pattern a lot.

I also really love this dress because it is pretty,
but not too formal (and I am a bit sad it is in tall sizes).

It also comes as a maxi dress.

Other than the pleat on the skirt and the Pepto Bismal pink color,
I really really love this dress.
Might have to frankenpattern the top of this one.
Oh, and adjust it to be not in half-sizes.

This is the designer exclusive dress for the month.

The pleating detail is a bit more evident in the line drawing.

Not sure that I would want to make one for myself,
but there is definitely a distinct look to the dress.

There were a few nice separates, and some good wardrobe staples this time around as well:

These pants - I love them!  I have been pondering on making print pants for a while,
but these may have pushed me over the edge.

The in seam pockets are a nice detail.

This version doesn't look so hot on the model though.
I am hoping it is just the fabric and not the pattern?

This skirt, I LOVE it!  I am not usually a big fan of the exposed zipper,
but I think it is a great detail on this skirt.

Yup, this is going on my to-sew list once I figure out what fabric I would want to use.

Basic, but nice pencil skirt.

I actually like this rather basic skirt as well - good option for boarder prints.

It has a nice A-line shape to it.

I really love this top!  Fabric choice could make it super fancy or more casual.

Interesting how the sleeves add to the collar drape.

This top is simple, but could be a good basic pattern.

Not sure how I feel about this one.  I think I like the concept,
but maybe not the colors and fabrics so much.

I am actually quite digging this peasant blouse however.

It looks a bit boxy in the line drawing...

...but pretty wearable on the model.
Might go in the consideration pile.

In addition to the regular patterns, the Burda Plus section was quite fabulous this month as well:

This dress is stunning!  Reminds me a bit of the dress in the
Spring/Summer Burda Plus issue this year,
but nice to see a variation in the regular magazine.

This short trench coat is pretty awesome as well!

The line drawing is big and boxy...

...but it looks fantastic on the model.
I am not usually a fan of boxy, but I wish this were also in regular sizes.

Also really liking this dress, though it looks a bit odd in the garment photo.

The line drawing shows it to be a fairly basic dress with an elastic waist.

But once again the model looks amazing.

This jacket/top is also pretty cute.

And there is a nice basic pencil skirt pattern too.

Though I really liked most of the patterns this time around, there were a few that left me shaking my head:

The color and shape on this dress make it just kind of sad.
Like a 60s dress that sat out in the sun for 50 years.

The pleating on this skirt looks quite odd with the sequins.

This peplum skirt is so weird!  Is like the bad holiday sweater version of a skirt.

And there we have it - the last Burda of the year!  I don't know if it is quite as exciting as November, but I do think there is a lot to like in this issue.  I actually had quite a bit of difficulty choosing the top pattern for the month, but in the end I settled on giving the Best of BS December 2013 award to:

Green drape shirt!

This is one of those patterns that could be dressed up or down, could suit plain or fancy fabrics, and the hem could be easily altered to make a work appropriate dress or evening gown.  I think the versatility of this pattern is what sells it for me, though the fact that it looks like it would be very easy to sew is a bonus as well.  Definitely a pattern I am going to have to root around in my stash for when it arrives.

Picking the pattern on the bottom was a bit easier.  I thought it was pretty obvious the BWTF award for December belonged to:

Bedazzled peplum skirt.

The cut on the peplum is just plain unflattering, it looks like a mini apron.  And the decorations don't help it one bit.

So, what do you all think?  Board, excited, or indifferent?  Any stand out patterns, or do they all look like something you have seen before?  What are your thoughts on the print pattern pants we have been seeing in the past few issues - cute or crazy?  How do you think this issue stakes up to the rest of 2013?  Feel free to discuss in the comments!