Thursday, August 14, 2014

Newsflash: September Burda Preview Posted

Sorry for the rather whiny post yesterday...  I've got a follow-up coming tomorrow, with some strategizing for the future, but let's just say a week of doing absolutely nothing except binge-watching the second season of The Great British Sewing Bee Season 2, coupled with an introduction to the writings of Adele P. Margolis has helped my headspace a bit.  I still feel tired, but I don't feel quite as overwhelmed.  The desire to hop in a car and drive away from everything has subsided a bit.  Granted, I've already had two sewing requests from the skating population, so, um, I may not have entirely calmed down, but I am feeling at least a little better.

(Slightly) helping with that is the full preview of the September Burda, which has just been posted to the Russian website.  Overall impressions: I think there are some very on-trend patterns in this issue, but don't know that it is one of my favorites of the year so far.  Definitely at least a few pieces I will consider sewing up, but noting especially drool-worthy for me this time around.  The large section dedicated to the Dirndl just isn't doing it for me right now.  Your mileage may vary.  Let's take a look:



First, the jackets:

Ok, I have to say I loved this when I saw it on the early preview...
The use of color blocking, the shape of the collar, even the zipper trim
all add up to a very interesting garment.

My only concern - the actual shape of the jacket!
It actually has a rather boxy cut, which typically doesn't look great on me.
There is enough detail here that I *might* be able to get away with it though.
Or, at least I can look at this as inspiration and figure out how to use the details elsewhere.

This very classic jacket is much more my style.
Love the notches on the lapels!

Actually I even like this jacket, which was part of the dirndl feature!
Really liking the shape and contrast fabric on the collar.


Normally I am not a fan of overly large, puffy coats,
but for some reason this one is working for me.

Maybe because I am envisioning it in some sort of waterproof nylon fabric?

Nearly the same, but shorter.


The contrast sweater is in nearly every pattern collection this fall!
I actually think it looks rather cute in the plaid.

Not sure how I feel about the giant patch pockets...
The proportions seem off, but I do like the combination of fabrics.
Might have to think about this leather/plaid combo some more...


There were a surprising number of dresses in this issue, considering it is the middle of fall...

Though, to be fair, most of the designs started with this basic sheath...

... and added something a little crazy...

... and put it on over something else.
It's like a college freshman decided to do
"Sexy Sound of Music" for Halloween.

Originally I was super excited when I saw this preview image...

... But looking closer I realized it is just a more
editorial version of the SSM dress above.

I was hoping this one had some sort of crazy sleeves, but it is just a wrap.
Not as exciting as I wanted it to be.

Another variation of the dress above.
I actually rather like this dress though.
And I have wanted and excuse to play with boning...


Not sure how I feel about this variation...
Though I suppose it would be easier to wear a bra?


This version is really cute though - the neckline is a great way to
play with a contrasting lace fabric.


This dress needs... a little editing.
The model photograph looks very romantic,
but there is just too much fluff on this dress!

Shorten the sleeves, remove the ruffs...   I like the neckline though.
That could be a fun way to play with sheer fabrics.

My first thought: mumsy school marm.

My second thought: You know, without all the extra bits, I actually really like this dress!

Seaming at the top is interesting,
skirt at the bottom... not as much.

Clone the back onto the front and I would like this much better.

When I saw these dresses on the preview I was not impressed...

Boring sack dress, right?
Wrong!  This definitely has a more relaxed fit, but look at all the seaming!
I am actually really tempted to try this one!  I'm so shocked I'm dropping
exclamation points all over the place!!!

At first I wasn't quite sold on this dress - it just looked like it was meant for a little girl.
But I can see how this dress could be a great transition piece -
wear it as is during the summer, or layer it over a turtleneck for the fall.


Or, you know, add an apron for a bit of a dust bowl vibe.


I think it is mainly the fabric choice, but when I look at this
all I can think is "homeless character/prison escapee in a sci-fi film."
Normally fall has some great separates, though in this issue it feels very hit or miss.

I LOVE this blouse!  Love it!  The drape is so pretty...
But friggin' Burda sized it for petites!
Why do they always give me extra work on the patterns I love most?
Why, Burda, why?

Just look at that collar.... Sigh.

Ok, when I saw this preview photo I thought,
boring blouse, unflattering pants.

But actually the blouse is quite cute!
Why would you hide the peplum on the model photo?
For me, it makes this garment feel more balanced.
I would love to see this worn with a great pencil skirt.

(And yes, I see that is is based on that dress pattern from above -
two garments with one muslin?  I'm down with that.)

I know Burda has given us similar tops before,
but I actually rather like this one.  It seems like a great transition piece -
it would look good with pants, a skirt, and under a jacket.


Funnily enough, while I wasn't loving the dress, this tunic is actually working for me.
I think it is the hood?  For some reason I was getting a modern city Jedi vibe off the model photo.
And, I mean, how awesome would it be to feel like a Jedi while you are pondering the
cumquats at the local Whole Foods?

All this is to say, this is not normally a pattern I would go for, but I might try this one.

I like this top, but only in Burdaland could anyone get away with
not wearing something under that super open v-neck.

The skirt is fine - pretty cute, and the proportions are nice.


This skirt is dramatic, but perhaps not entirely practical.

Would I wear it in a busy city?  Probably not.
Would I adapt this skirt to be used in a fancy gown pattern?  Heck yes.

Boxy sweater is... ok.  Maybe a bit overwhelming.

So. Much. Fabric!

I wasn't a fan of these pants in the model photo...

... but the line drawing is worse!  I get the desire to make interesting pants, but no.
I'm sorry, it looks like your seam had an epic failure and your belt fell into your pants!
This skirt is just... sad.  It sort of looks like the pattern pieces didn't quite match up anywhere.

The Burda Plus section is also something of a mixed bag this time around.  The fact that they decided to do everything in black (or wild prints featuring black) makes it a bit difficult to see all the details in the photos though.

This dress is cute!

Great for a fall work wardrobe, and lots of fun ways to play with fabrics.

A bit difficult to see all of the details on this top...

But I think this is fantastic too!
My sister might be getting one of these.  She may not have a choice.

The Plus section gets a sweater too!  It is definitely the thing this fall.

Not really loving this tunic.
The pleated hem is... a bit much.

Not really working for me as a dress either.

The contrast on this skirt is... interesting?
Not sure I am a fan of the asymmetric drape hanging in the middle.
I think moving it to the side might have been more effective.

Usually I'm not a fan of the weird crotch trousers,
but I actually don't mind these too much.

And my skater bum can fit into the Plus sized bottoms without much effort...
I feel like I may want to experiment with the potential craziness in the future...
Am I totally losing it?

This cardigan jacket just looks.... so heavy.

And complicated!  I'm exhausted just looking at the pattern.

Oh, look, we get a guy's jacket pattern!
I'm actually super excited for this one you guys...
I have a plan to use it for somewhat... nefarious... purposes.

And that's about it.  (Well, there are kids clothes... but they looks like they came out of the Sound of Music, so, eh.)  Which means it is time to pick the best and worst pattens for the month!  This month I think it is pretty obvious that the Best of BS belongs to...


Color blocked zipper jacket!
Yes, as much as I wish there was a bit more shaping going on, I have to say that this jacket definitely "brought it" in terms of design.  There is a lot going on with the print, the color blocking, the zipper trim.... But it all works together to give a really interesting garment.  Is it a timeless classic piece that will work for years to come?  No, not so much.  But is it cool and interesting and different and feels very modern and current.

As far as the worst pattern for the month... There wasn't anything totally crazy, but there were definitely a few contenders.  In the end I gave BWTF for September to:

Uninspired gathered skirt.
It was nearly those crazy pants... But, well, at least it was looking like they were trying to do something interesting there.  This skirt is just... blah.  Like, baggy potato sack rumply looking blah.  I am... not a fan.

So there it is!  Overall I'm feeling... generally positive, but not overwhelmingly excited by this issue.  There are some nice pieces, but nothing has me pulling out fabric from the stash in anticipation of the magazine's arrival.  What do you all think?  See anything you can't wait to add to your fall wardrobe?  Or do you have other things in your sewing plans?  Feel free to discuss in the comments!

5 comments:

  1. Crud. There are some that I want now! Wahhhh.

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  2. These are great. i think the drape front trousers look so chic when paired with a tucked in blouse. I think you could totally rock them.

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  3. Yeah there are some good patterns. :) I'm excited!

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  4. I could see me in a few of these patterns ... and I few I def's couldn't see myself in!

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  5. I just picked my issue up today, there are a few decent things, I just have to close my eyes to the whole "Heidi" dirndl nonsense!

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