Skating Dress Tutorial Part II: All That Sparkles

I have been meaning to do a rhinestone post for a while now, but it seems to work well in the context of my skating costume tutorial, so here we go.

One of the most fun parts of skating costumes have to be the flashy brilliance and sparkle.  Most costumes use rhinestones to achieve this, but sequins are an option as well.  The lighting in skating rinks can be quite varied, and rhinestones seem to be the most versatile in terms of providing sparkle in different conditions.  There are many different types and sizes of rhinestones, and I don't mean for this post to be an exhaustive list, but rather an overview of what's out there and what I recommend for skating.

Also, I am just stating my recommendations and preferences.  There are a lot of products, methods, and techniques out there but I am just going to point out what works best for me.

RHINESTONES

The most common rhinestones in skating costumes - plain crystal (left) and crystal AB (right)

Rhinestones are pieces of leaded glass cut to reflect light and look like little jewels.  They come in a multitude of colors, shapes and sizes.  The better quality stones have a higher lead content, and more consistent cutting of the stone.  Most of this discussion will pertain to the small round flat-backed stones, and I will have a separate section dedicated to larger sew-on stones.

Brands

Though there are cheaper options available, the only two brand of rhinestones I really recommend are Swarovski and Czech Preciosa.  Swarovski is the brand name people recognize, and you are paying for the brand.  I prefer the Czech stones myself - the cost is more reasonable, the colors are nearly identical, and unless you are a rhinestone expert comparing the stones up close, you really cannot tell the quality difference from the Swarovski stones.  Swarovski does offer some colors that are not available in the Czech stones, and there are a few special effect colors that look very different between brands, but, in general, if you want to be friendly to your wallet I would go with a Czech Preciosa.  If you are trying to sell something, Swarovski is the brand people respond to.  If you just want to make a pretty and affordable costume, Czech Preciosa is the better buy.

Colors

There are so many colors available that I cannot begin to describe them all.  The main things you need to know is that there are regular colors (these are just plain glass rhinestones, but can be in clear crystal or any other color), AB colors (AB = aurora borealis; these stones have a special coating that gives them a rainbow effect), and special effect colors (these are often multiple colors of glass used in the same stone, but can also be stones with special coatings or backings to give them a different look than a regular rhinestone).  The most commonly used color in skating is the crystal AB - it is a clear stone, so it picks up and reflects the most light, but the AB coating also allows it to blend in/pick up the color of the costume as well.  It goes with everything and comes in the most sizes.  There are so many different colors and types of stones that you really shouldn't limit yourself though - be creative and choose stones that will be best for your costume.  Most places online have color charts or pictures, but rhinestones are difficult to photograph, so if possible you should try to get your own color card, so you can be sure of exactly what you are ordering.

Quantity

Rhinestones are sold by the gross (1 gross = 144 pieces).  Typically I will use 5-15 gross of stones on one dress.  Granted, I am a fairly large individual (as far as the skating world goes), so if you are sewing for a younger child you probably won't need as much.  Also, I am a bit rhinestone obsessed, so there is that too.  Often, when you order rhinestones you can get better rates if you buy in bulk (2 gross for larger sizes, 10 gross for smaller sizes), which is what I do since I know I will use them eventually.

Sizes

Rhinestones are most often sold by "stone size" or "ss" measurements.  Smaller numbers mean smaller stones.  For skating costumes I recommend staying in the 20ss or 30ss sizes, though anything in the 16ss-34ss range would be ok.  I just think that 20ss and 30ss offer the best compromise of size, budget, and visibility from far away.  Obviously, larger stones will offer more sparkle, but they are also much more expensive.  Smaller stones don't sparkle as well and they take much longer to attach to the dress.

Type

There are two types of flat-backed stones - glue on and hot fix.  I prefer the glue on, as I am not convinced the hot fix adhesive will withstand repeated exposure to perspiration.  Also, the hot fix requires a special tool (to melt the glue on the back of the stone), and having something that can burn me (or the dress!) is probably not the best idea when faced with a repetitive task that I often do late at night.  So, I recommend the regular glue-on stones.

SEW-ON RHINESTONE JEWELS

These are some decent quality non-Swarovski Stones

Real Swarovski Stones

The sew-on rhinestones are some of the most spectacular because of their large size and varied shapes.  With these a little goes a long way, but a lot can be down right stunning.  With the sew-on stones, Swarovski provides the best selection, and there almost no sew-on Czech stones to be found.  I have recently been experimenting with cheaper quality Korean stones - these do not have the same clarity and color depth of the Swarovski stones, and close up you can tell that there is a serious difference in quality.  Also, the coatings do not seem to be as robust and scratch much more easily.  However, at a distance the cheaper stones do just as good of a job as the Swarovski stones at less than half the price.  If you are going to use these larger stones on a figure dress or for non-skating clothes that will be seen up-close, go with the Swarovski.  If you are making a costume for freestyle or dance skating, then the cheaper stones will suffice.  The sew-on stones are often sold individually or by the dozen as opposed to by the gross.  When you are using these larger stones I highly recommend that you sew them on and not glue them, as the glue will often be too weak to bear the weight of such large stones.  Or you can glue and sew them for extra strength.  Also, you want to make sure that the stones have flat backs and holes for sewing, as there are many large stones that have shaped backs or no holes.  Unlike the small round rhinestones, the larger stone sizes are indicated by millimeters (mm).

SEQUINS

So. Many. Sequins!

Sequins are the cheaper alternative to rhinestones.  They are made of a foiled plastic, and come in an even wider variety of shapes, sizes, and colors than the rhinestones do.  The most common varieties of sequins are cupped and flat.  They are often sold by the 1000s due to their smaller size and cheaper cost.  Usually they have a hole at the center, but some of them have multiple holes or holes located near the outer rim so that they can be threaded to dangle.  Sequins often don't have as much of a flash as the rhinestones do, but their cost makes them much more affordable for use in large quantities.  They can be sold loose, strung, or on stretchy elastic trim.  Usually the loose ones are best, but I have been know to buy strung ones because I wanted a particular colors, then un-string them so I could used them the way I wanted.  Mixing sequins and rhinestones can be a great way to maximize sparkle on a limited budget.


RHINESTONE SOURCES

The Bead Factory

The Bead Factory (aka Bohemian Crystal) is a bead store located in the LA Fashion District.  They offer many (many many) types of beads, but they also have a lot of crystals and rhinestones.  They have become my source for Czech Preciosa stones, and they have a large selection of Swarovski stones as well (including sew-ons).  They also have a few options for cheaper quality sew-on stones as well.  They have a larger selection at their store than they do online, and their stock is constantly changing.  They have most of the common stone sizes and colors, but not quite as much variety as I have found elsewhere.  I have been to the store in person, and I have ordered from them online - both were good experiences in terms of quality and service.  They aren't overly helpful (they are VERY busy with many customers) but they will provide help if you need it or have a question.  I find their service to be quite efficient and their prices are probably the best I have found.

Dreamtime Creations

Dreamtime Creations is another online source of rhinestones.  They offer many color and size options that can't be found elsewhere.  Their prices are reasonable and I have found their service to be very good.  I use them to order special colors or special sew-on stones that I can't get anywhere else.

Nova Rhinestone Depot

Nova Rhinestone is another store based in the LA fashion district.  They have become my source for lesser quality sew-on rhinestones.  I wouldn't use their other products for skating costumes, but these larger stones look good at a distance, especially if you blend them in with better quality rhinestones on the rest of the dress.

Rhinestone Guy

Rhinestone Guy is totally awesome and has good prices.  He has a great variety in his stock, and has now developed his own line of rhinestones (I have not used them, so cannot vouch for quality).  He is very knowledgeable and helpful, and his website is a great resource of information in addition to products you can buy.  And, how could you not like a guy who rhinestone-flamed his motorcycle?  His prices are very competitive and he offers great knowledge and service.  He used to be my go-to guy until he moved across the country :-(

Cartwright's Sequins

Cartwright's is my favorite online sequin supply.  They have the largest selection of sizes and styles I have found, their prices are great, and their service is speedy.  I have always been pleased with the products I have ordered, and sometimes you can even find a good deal on large bags of "seconds" - most of the sequins are good, but there are enough bad ones (cut wrong) that they sell the whole thing at a discount.

APPLICATION

Applying the rhinestones to a skating costume is usually done in one of two ways - by gluing it on or by sewing it on.

Glue

If you have the rhinestones without a hole, you will be glueing them on.  I use E6000 as my glue of choice.  There are a lot of people who dislike it (it is gummy, smelly, gunky, and stringy), but in my experience it has the best holding power.  All other glues I have tried have not held up well to perspiration, or they not worked well on all fabric types.  E6000 works equally well on velvet as it does on lycra.  I think it provides the best hold and if you are careful in applying it, there aren't too many issues with strings or messiness on the dress.  My old method was to let it ooze onto a paper plate, and use a toothpick to scoop up some glue, then pick up a rhinestone with my toothpick and put it onto the dress. I generally use a twirling action to get a good sized glue drop and spread it on the back of the stone.  This method takes a while but I think it provides the best control in terms of making sure you have enough glue on each stone and that the area around the stone doesn't get too messy.  However, if you are more interested in speed (as I am this year), then using a syringe is an alternative method.  This can be a much quicker method of application, but you have to be careful about how much glue you squirt and you have to make sure to get the stone into the glue before it dries.  Also, the syringe is usually not re-useable because once the E6000 dries it is totally stuck.  The syringe method probably wastes less glue overall though.

Sewing

Sewing on a rhinestone or sequin depends on what type it is and how it needs to look.  If you have a single-hole stone or sequin, usually it is held on with the use of a seed bead.  You bring the needle up through the fabric, put the sequin and seed bead on the needle, then pull the need back through the sequin and fabric, creating a loop through the seed bead.  In regular garments, most beading is done in a continuous string - you keep going until you run out of thread, and you can see lots of thread on the underside of the fabric.  I do NOT recommend this for skating costumes.  You must sew and tie off each stone individually because if you don't then when the fabric stretches the threads will most likely pop and send all of your hard work falling to the floor.  Which is sad for you and dangerous for the skaters.  So you should sew on each stone individually.  For those stones with multiple holes, you can just sew through them with thread.  In general, I try to wrap the thread around the hole at least three times to provide strength and stability.  The nice thing about sew-on stones is they are re-useable - you can cut them off of one dress and sew them onto another.  However, I will say that sometimes the edges of the cheaper quality (non-Swarovski) stones are a bit rough and will cut through the threads, so I recommend glueing them AND sewing them, just to make sure they stay in place.  Also, because I am paranoid about things falling off of my costumes, I also always glue the threads on the underside of the dress just to make sure they don't come un-knotted.

So - there you have it.  My accumulated knowledge of rhinestones and sequins.  I hope that this will be helpful to those of you who are looking to add a little pizzaz to your costumes (or anything else, really).  If you have any further questions feel free to leave them in the comments!

Hardwood Floor Love

I don't remember how I found this page, but I thought roller skating fans would enjoy seeing a rink getting pimped-out with a brand new hardwood floor:

See the pictures here.

With so many rinks being sold and destroyed, it makes me happy to see a rink getting a facelift.  And isn't that floor gorgeous?  Really want to skate there, if only it weren't halfway across the country!  But maybe if it is close to where you live you should head over and enjoy the lovely new floor.

Newsflash: June Burda Preview Posted

My joining the Russian Burda website is working rather well, as it seems that only logged in members can view the previews of the new magazines?  Anyway, you might get to see the new designs here with any luck.  Overall I have to say I am quite pleased with this issue.  I think there is a nice assortment of casual summer clothes, solid basics, and summer athletic wear, but I am especially in love with so many of their summer special occasion dresses.  So much pretty!  And it has been ridiculously hot the past few days, so I am totally ready for summer clothes.  Well, I would be if I weren't drowning in skating costumes.  But there are definitely some patterns from this issue that I want to include in my future wardrobe.

Ok, let's just start things off with the good stuff, the pretty dresses:

Love the subtle gathers at the neck and waist.

Details are a bit easier to see in the line drawing.

The short version might be more practical.
(Though I would leave off the fluffy flowers.)

The ruching on the bodice is so pretty! 

It makes me think of a gown for ballroom dancing.

I like the idea of this dress, but I think the gathers look maybe a bit too haphazard?
Though I love the crossed top of the neckline.

I think I prefer the all-over ruching on this dress.

I feel like this would be perfect if I were a guest
for a summer beach wedding.

There were also some nice, classy, but more practical patterns this month:

How many of these tops am I going to make?
So many.

I would change the pockets, but otherwise I LOVE these pants.
Classy.

Nice basic shorts, but the lack of fly front seems to make them a bit dressier.

I still need to make a TNT shirt pattern, so this is of interest to me.

Not necessarily my favorite style of jacket,
but I could see it being nice for a summer evening.

Nicely fitted t-shirt.

Look at the seam lines!  Looks like a great t-shirt pattern for a more fitted style.  

Basic dress, but classy.

The side seams/panels make it more fitted
than many of the other sheath dresses I have seen lately.

There were also a few things that are casual, but look good for a summer wardrobe:

Basic dress, but cute for super hot summer days.

I sort of like this more fluffy skirt.
It makes me want to twirl.

But holy cow look at all those godets!
Might be interesting to sew just for construction purposes.

Basic skirt, but could be a wardrobe workhorse.

Not really a fan of this obligatory one-shoulder draped dress...

But I am rather liking it as a top.

Similarly, the neckline is the only
interesting thing about this boring grey maxi dress...

But I could see myself wearing this top all summer.

Burda is also giving us a Vintage pattern this month:

Not my favorite...  But you can feel free to disagree.

There is also a section that seems to be more based on summer athletic or workout style clothes.  I think there is a nice mix of fashion and function in these designs.  So while I don't know that this will be useful for everyone, it is something I don't think Burda has done too much before, so I am going to say that I like it!

Same as the fitted t-shirt above, but with a sporty feel.

Sort of like this zipper top, though don't know how
I would feel about the zipper  against my skin if I were exercising.

Exercise shorts could be super practical.

This dress might not be good for exercising, but I sort of like it.

I am on the fence with this color blocked knit dress though.
Thoughts?

Ok, so this is just a basic drawstring skirt,
but I could see it being good as a swimsuit cover up.

Even the bad stuff in this issue wasn't all that bad.  Most of it was just so boring as to not be worth mentioning.  The Burda Plus section was rather snooze-worthy this time around.  In fact, there were only two patterns I found to be bad enough to point out as being particularly cringe-worthy this month:

A square wrapped around the body is not a cute look for an adult.
Your three year old?  Yeah, sure.  For you?  No, not so much.

Burda insists that this is a dress.
A see-through dress made out of mesh fabric?
WTF, Burda, WTF.

So yay!  Another month down.  Crazy to think we are halfway through our Burdas for the year.  Anyway, it is time to pick the best and worst looks for the month.  It was really, really hard to pick out the "best" look.  I am trying to decide between the awesome but impractical fancy dresses, and the much more likely to be sewn/worn basic tops, pants, and skirts.  In the end I sort of went to the halfway point, and decided to award the Best of BS to:

Cowl neck dress of win!

I love this dress, but I can see how it might not be the best pattern for everyone.  However, the cowl top that is similar to this dress could look good on a lot of people, so I figured this would be a good compromise.  Also, I want one.

As far as the worst of the month, well, I think it is pretty obvious that BWTF for June goes to:

That is NOT a dress.  A top, maybe.  A dress, no.
And I can see through it!!!

And there we have it.  I am excited.  Yes, a few misses, but way more hits.  What do you all think?  Are you swooning over the gorgeous gowns, or are you more interested in the basics?  Or are you just bored?  Also, anyone else worried for July?  Seems to me that usually June or July tend to be good, and the other tends to be an atrocity of squares and sack dresses.  Feel free to discuss in the comments!

Skating Dress Tutorial Part I: The Info Dump

Ok, so today's post is about what we are going to need to make our skating costumes.  Since we are sewing something of a specialty item, there are a lot of particulars, but I expect you will probably already have a lot of them about your sewing space if you already sew.  If you don't sew, but want to make skating costumes, then this should give you a good idea of what it is going to take to get started.  I am going to try and point out what is the bare minimum in terms of necessity, but also what I recommend as having for better or easier results.

(1) Sewing Machine(s)

Ok, since this is a sewing blog I expect most of my readers probably already have a sewing machine, but if you don't there are a few things to look for when you get one.  For making skating costumes the most important thing is that your sewing machine have a zig-zag stitch:

I typically use the regular zig-zag (#04) for elastic and topstitching.
I used to use the 3-step zig-zag (#05) to construct major seams.

3-step zig-zag stitch.

Zig-zags provide a lot of stretch but don't give the smoothest seams though.

The zig-zag allows the fabric to stretch without placing too much stress on the threads or fabric prevent the seams from ripping.  I would say the bare minimum for sewing skating costumes is to make sure you have a single step zig-zag stitch on your machine.

Most modern machines have several types of zig-zag stitches, most often a single strep and 3-step, though some have even more options.  If you are looking at more modern computerized machines, I also highly recommend that they have the "stretch overlock" stitch:

The Stretch Overlock stitch is one of my favorites - stretchy and a smooth seam.

A sample of the stretch overlock stitch before cutting off the extra seam allowance.

I think this gives a much smoother seam.

This will give a better, smoother appearance to the side-seams than a regular zig-zag will.  Also helpful for improving your seams - a walking foot.  I find that this works well in making sure that stretch fabrics are fed through the sewing machine evenly.  It isn't necessary, but it is helpful.

If you are planning to regularly sew skating costumes (or knits in general), then I also highly recommend buying a serger:

My serger - the Brother 1034D

A serger or overlock machine is a special type of sewing machine that cuts the fabric seam allowance as you sew, and uses four threads to stitch and cover the seam.  It often provides the smoothest seams while still allowing the fabric to stretch.  It can also be used to help with elastic insertion, and most have other features like rolled hems that can also be helpful for costume construction.  It is not a necessary item (I sewed for many years before I got one), but I find that I use it on almost all of my sewing projects now in one capacity or another, so it could be a good investment.

Serger cuts away the extra seam allowances, and neatens the edges with thread.

Finally, if you are really getting into this, you might consider a coverstitch machine:

A Brother Coverstitch Machine

The coverstitch is a very specific machine used for hemming knit fabrics.  You won't really need it to hem, but it can also be useful in elastic insertion.  If you want your skating costumes to look like you "bought it off the rack" then this machine will give that appearance to the elastic parts of your garments.  (On a side rant - you probably DON'T want your costume to look like you bought it off the rack - they are usually poorly fitting and the skirts are often fairly ugly or ill fitting.  Am I a skating costume snob?  Yeah, I kinda am...).  I don't have a coverstitch machine (yet... but I want one!), so I won't be using one for this tutorial, but if you have one you can use it to get a very professional finished edge to your skating costume.

Buying a sewing machine is a big purchase, so you will want to do a little research.  There are entire websites dedicated to people discussing the intricacies of various brands and models.  Older vintage machines are often most robust, but least equipped to deal with stretch fabrics.  Modern machines have more options, but can often be more flimsy.  I have used three machines (my first was a Brother CS6000i, then a Brother 9050SQ, and now my new Janome 3160QDC) and all have been fine for sewing skating costumes, though I will admit my upgrade to the Janome has been a bit of a revelation   The first machine I bought from Amazon and the second from WalMart (long story).  You don't need the biggest fanciest machine, but if your main goal is to sew skating costumes, it might be worth upgrading a little bit to make sure it has some of the additional stitch functions you might find yourself wanting to use.

So, to summarize:
Necessary: Sewing Machine with zig-zag
Better: Sewing Machine with multiple zig-zag options and stretch overlock stitch and a walking foot
Best: Sewing machine with zig-zag and a serger
Ultimate: Sewing machine, serger, and coverstitch machines

(2) Needles

Ok, so now that we have a sewing machine, we need to make sure we use the right type of needle on our skating costume fabric.  Most fabrics do well with a regular sharp needle, but knit and stretch fabrics need a special type of needle so as to not get runs or snags while you are sewing them.  The cheeper or more common stretch needle is called a ball-point needle, because the tip is more rounded than a regular needle.  The shape on some have been refined even more, and are called stretch needles. You can find sewing machine needles at your local sewing/craft store, but I do have a few recommendations on brands and sources.  For many years I used the Dritz brand of needle, but I wasn't entirely happy with the performance (I found they would dull quickly and break easily).  Schmetz stretch needles are a much better quality, but are far more expensive.  Then I got a comment on Pattern Review and someone recommended the Organ Needles from CTS to me.  Awesome!  You have to buy in bulk, but they are so much cheeper on a per-needle basis it is worth it (not to mention you won't have to buy needles for years, and you won't have to worry about breaking one... or four).  I think Schmetz is still the best brand, but in a quality vs. price comparison, Organ wins out (they are still very good needles).  As far as size is concerned, I prefer to use the 90/14 size, because I think it lasts better when sewing through the elastic.  If you have a very delicate fabric though, you might want to use the size 75/11 instead, at least for the major seams.

Necessary: Ball Point Needles
Better: Stretch Ball Point Needles
Best: Schmetz Ball Point Needles

(3) Patterns

Unless you know how to draft your own patterns, it is probably best to buy one of the patterns commercially available.  The two companies that offer the most selection right now are Kwik Sew and Jalie.  Another option is Specialty Sportswear, though I haven't ever ordered or used any of their patterns, so I cannot offer any advice on their product.  The do seem to have a wide assortment of options, and many possibilities for boys as well, so I did want to include the link just in case you want to take a chance on them and try their patterns (also, if you have ever used them please leave a comment and tell me how it was!).  Both Jalie and Kwik Sew have multi-sized patterns, so I think they are better investments (you can sew for many people or growing people or shrinking people with just one pattern), but really you just need to find a pattern that appeals to you.  Kwik Sew has separate children and adult patterns, but Jalie has them all in one envelope, so that is something to consider as well.  Personally, I prefer Kwik Sew at the moment, because I have had a great fit with everyone I have sewn for, though I have had decent results with Jalie as well.  Since I use my self-drafted skirts, I will often use leotard or swim suit patterns instead of actual skating costume patterns, but you should get whatever appeals to you.  My TNT (tried-and-true) pattern is Kwik Sew 2601,

but when I sew for others I most often use Kwik Sew 3502 as a starting point.

My plan for this tutorial is to use my TNT for one dress and try out an new pattern, Kwik Sew 2962 for a second dress.  (Spoiler Alert: The new pattern doesn't turn out well...)

I will use the top from view A and the bottom from view B.

Necessary: Any leotard-style pattern you want to use.

(4) Fabric

The fun part - fabric shopping!  You are going to need some sort of stretchy fabric to make a skating costume, but you also need to remember that since it will be active wear you want the fabric to have good recovery and decent ability to deal with moisture and perspiration.  If you are starting out I recommend sticking to the spandex or nylon/lycra swimwear materials.  These often come in the most colors and prints, and will work out well.  There are different qualities and weights, but in general these will yield the best results.  If you are feeling more adventurous, you can try stretch velvet or "slinky" materials - these can work well, but often have a greater range of quality available, so I would say you should use your best judgement on these.  I am a big fan of lace skating costumes, but if you are just starting make sure to use stretch lace that has at least 8% lycra content.  Fabrics to avoid: cotton knits, rayon knits, panne stretch velvets.  These will either provide too little stretch, too little recovery, or will roll like crazy and drive you batty.  They can be great for other things, but not for skating costumes.  Of course, I recommend going to your local fabric store to look for skating costume fabric, since feeling the stretch, weight, and drape will help you choose the best option, but if that is not possible then my favorite source of online skating fabric is Spandex World.  They have a swatch service (which used to be free but now costs $0.75 per sample.  But if you are looking for something specific or color matching it is fabulous, I must say), and they are very efficient in filling their orders.  They have a huge assortment of fabrics and I would say that their prices are fair (you won't be getting a deal, but you won't be overpaying either).  Most skating fabrics are in the 60" wide range, but a few are 45" or less, so you should check that before you order.  In general, I buy about 2 yards of a fabric, or 3 yards if I am going to be having full sleeves.  You should check your pattern for fabric requirements, but always buy a little bit extra (especially if you are going to change the skirt pattern).  The flat skirts (that I like to use) take up less fabric, but the cutting layout can be a bit more awkward than the round fluffy skirts. I also recommend getting 1 yard of a lining fabric.  This isn't always necessary, but I like to line all of my skating costumes, except for velvet.  I think having an extra layer provides more structure and support, and helps to keep everything in place.

Necessary: 2-3 yards of stretch fabric
Optional: 1 yard of lining fabric

(5) Other Supplies

Now that we have the main parts of our costume we need to get a few extra notions to help make it.

(a) Elastic - Elastic is used at all of the openings of the skating costume to help keep things in place.  The elastic should have good recovery so that it won't stretch out and the outfit won't become baggy.  I tend to disregard pattern instructions and use elastic one width size larger than instructed. The smaller elastic will give you a prettier result, but the larger elastic will keep your tights in place.  I generally use braid elastic, as I find knit elastic to be too stiff and uncomfortable, especially when around the leg area.  Also, whatever else you do, do NOT use clear elastic - it will stretch out and not maintain its shape well at all.  My recommendations for sizes:

1/4" - occasionally useful, especially if you need to make boot covers
3/8" - this is the size I use around all of the openings, except the leg holes.  Buy several yards of this, especially if you have an open back and no sleeves.  Less fabric = more elastic.
1/2" - the size I use for the leg openings.  I always use less than the pattern recommends, but I still need a little over a yard for each costume
3/4" - 1 1/2" - I use these large sizes to make straps, so I always have some around, but not as much as in the smaller sizes

Necessary: 3-5 yards 3/8" elastic, 2 yards 1/2" elastic
Optional: Other sizes of elastic

(b) Thread - Obviously we need thread for our sewing machines.  My favorite brand is Guttermann, though I have used Coats & Clark, and I have heard good things about Mettler as well.  Skating costumes take up a LOT of thread because you are using so many zig-zag stitches.  You should use polyester sew-all thread because it is stronger than cotton, and will be more resistant to decay from contact with perspiration.  If you are using only a sewing machine I recommend getting at least 200m (but probably better to get 300-500m) per costume.  If you are using a serger, then I have really liked the Maxi-Lock serger thread, but I have also used Guttermann thread as well.  For the serger, I use regular sewing machine thread in the needles, and serger thread through the loopers.  I do this because the loopers use more threads but have less stress on them, so I can get away with using a cheaper thread.  I use regular thread in the needles because those threads will have more force on them, and I want them to be stronger.  I know that if you are using a serger, it is supposed to be better to use wooly nylon threads in the loopers, but it is so expensive that I haven't yet been able to bring myself to use it.  In my experience, using the regular thread in the loopers works just as well, and I don't notice any irritation or rubbing.  If you have sensitive skin, wooly nylon is probably a better option.

Necessary: 200-300m sew-all polyester thread
Better (for use with a serger): 3 spools polyester sew-all thread, 2 spools serger thread
Best (for a serger): 3 spools polyester sew-all thread, 2 spools (or more) wooly nylon thread

(c) Rotary Cutter and Mat - This is an optional tool that will make cutting out the skating costume MUCH easier.  You can cut it out with traditional scissors, but the rotary cutter is faster, easier, and gives a cleaner cut on knits.  I use the Olfa brand, but there are others that will work just as well.  If you use this, you should also get a self-healing mat, in the largest size you can afford.  I have a 24" x 36" mat and it is the perfect size for skating costumes, though I do often wish it were larger for other projects.  Maybe when I have a real cutting table and not just the floor...  I also recommend a clear straightedge ruler - very helpful for cutting strips of fabric for straps.  Along with this you can also look for pattern weights to help keep your pattern in place as you are cutting it out.  I don't have any, and use other objects instead (like scissors, tape dispensers, etc.), but I think they could be quite useful and might consider getting some myself in the future.  If you don't have a rotary cutter, you should at least have good scissors that are for fabric cutting only.

Necessary: Fabric scissors
Better: Rotary cutter and mat
Optional: Clear straightedge and pattern weights

(d) Tape Measure and Sewing Gauges - Being able to measure is important in sewing.  You should have an accurate tape measure so you can measure yourself or your skater to figure out what sizes you will need from your pattern.  You can use this to measure other things, but I have found that I am now addicted to having a sewing gauge by my machine, and so I recommend that as well.

Necessary: Tape Measure
Optional: Sewing Gauge

(e) Tracing Paper - Since most of the skating costume patterns are multi-sized, and since they are also fairly expensive ($10 and up), I don't recommend cutting directly into the original pattern (though I did do this when I first started).  This also means if you screw up any fit alterations, the original is still intact.  So I recommend tracing the patterns, then doing alterations to the trace and keeping the original clean.  Since I also trace magazine patterns, I go through a lot of tracing paper, and so I use medical exam paper to trace all my patterns.  It is not always the easiest to see through to trace, but it is a nice compromise on price, durability, and traceability.  I have never splurged on "real" tracing paper - the kind with the grids - but I expect it might be better.  I have seen a lot of different tracing methods online, and if you have a favorite method you can share it in the comments.  I usually just trace with my medical paper and a regular old ball point pen.  Of course, if you want you can just cut out your pattern, but, again, I don't really recommend it.

Optional: Tracing paper

And that's it!  Ok, it seems like a lot, but most of you probably either have many of these items, or, if not at least once you have them you can reuse them.  I am going to do a separate post about rhinestones, sequins, embellishment, and general bling since there is a lot of stuff there to cover.  After that we can get to work making our skating costumes!