Sunday, October 21, 2012

Pattern Review: Patrones Extra 10-40

You guys - I have pants!  I have been lusting after these pants since March... and finally I have them finished!  This was my first experience using a Patrones pattern, and I have to say that overall I am quite happy with the resulting fit.

Patrones Extra 10-40

There were a few design changes made because my rudimentary Spanish and sewing experience wasn't quite enough to help me figure out what was supposed to happen, but overall I think things turned out pretty well.  I am going to count these pants as part of my year-long Sewing Challenge, as my "Unexpected" Trendy Item.  Ok, so maybe these pants aren't exactly "trendy" like colorful cigaret pants, exposed zippers, or peplums, but these pants are very much a stretch for me and my wardrobe.  And by that I mean (1) they aren't jeans, (2) they aren't a dark color, and (3) they have pleats!  Basically these are the sort of pants I would try on in a store and leave behind after having a horrifically brain-scarring encounter with a reflection in the dressing room mirror.  You know how that goes.  But, you guys, I really like these pants!  I think proper fit makes a world of difference between my self-sewn pants and store-bought pants in the same style.  So, are these pants the ultimate in current trends?  No, but are they helping me push my bounds and comfort zone?  Yeah.  So, ergo, for my challenge, they count.

And, so, here are my pants:

Side view.  On a side note - my first pants with pockets!
Booty shot.  Also, I clearly need to get some wedges/heels to wear with these pants.
The front with my altered waistband, pleats, and AWESOME fly front.
Please note that the only reason it wrinkles here is because I need to move the button over slightly, but since I wanted to take pictures before it got dark I hadn't had time to move it yet.  Otherwise - flat as a pancake.
Pocket!  I am super proud of my topstitching.
I used Gutermann Extra Strong thread for the topstitching and I really like the look.
The sides are mock flat-felled seams, and I think they look pretty good.
Crazy model pose imitation photo!
A few additional thoughts: (1) I do not like the fact that it gets dark earlier... it makes taking good photos more difficult, and I apologize for all the crazy shadows.  (2) I really need to get brown or tan heels and/or wedges to go with these pants.  I mean, I hemmed them long intentionally, but they really will look better with heeled shoes and not flats.  (3) These probably will be more of a spring/summer wardrobe item, but since it has been over 100 the past week, well, I can pretend.  Definitely not pants to wear in the rain though.  (4) Just in case you are wondering, I am wearing them with my Simplicity 2369 top.

And my official review:

Pattern Description:  Wide legged trousers with pleats, pockets, and front closure detail.

Pattern Sizing: Patrones sizes 40-44-48.  I had heard that Patrones runs 2 sizes smaller than Burda on average, so I traced the size 48 (since I am usually a Burda size 44) and graded down to a 46 in the waist.  The fit was practically perfect (other than the typical gaping in the back waist that happen to me on every pants and skirt pattern due to swayback issues), so I think the 2 size conversion is probably a good way for a Burda user to pick out a size in Patrones.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Well, I used a combination of my rudimentary Spanish skills and google translate to convert the instructions from Spanish to English, but I didn't think they were super helpful, so I largely ignored them.  Which was a bit bad because I ended up not being able to figure out exactly how to make the waistband like it is in the magazine.  I ended up using instructions from Pants for Real People to do the fly-front and pockets, and the rest I did based on previous pants-sewing experience and figuring things out by staring at the model photo in the magazine.

Did it look like the photo/drawing when you were done with it?  Mostly, except for the waistband.  I changed that after not being able to figure out how to put it together, and deciding I didn't really want the metal rings anyway since metal fixtures usually give me skin rashes.  Otherwise I tried to duplicate the color, style, and topstitching, and I think it looks very similar.

What did you particularly like/dislike about this pattern?  Well, the fit was fabulous without any crazy alterations, so that is a major plus!  I was really drawn to this pattern in the magazine, though I typically avoid pleated-front pants.  I wanted push myself to go outside my comfort zone, so I picked a style and color that I wouldn't normally wear.  In the end I am very happy with it.  My only dislike is inability to figure out how to make the waistband look like it does in the magazine.  I am sure it isn't really that complicated, I just wasn't able to figure it out.

Fabric used:  I used a tan stretch cotton sateen for most of the pants, and a lightweight poly lining for the front pocket bags.  I think the sateen is a bit more prone to wrinkles than I would have liked, but overall I am happy with materials I used.

Pattern alterations or design changes you made:  The only pattern alterations I made for fit were to nip in the waist a bit to prevent gap-a-tosis in the center back, and to add 2.5" to the inseam length (because apparently Patrones drafts for a shorter woman than Burda does).  As far as design changes, I left off the belt loops (because the fit is good and I won't need a belt with these pants), and I changed the front of the waistband because I couldn't figure out how to get all the buckles and loops in the right spots.  I sort of winged it and ended up with a more boring but equally functional waistband.

Would you sew this again?  Would you recommend this to others?  I don't know how soon I would sew this again - I chose this pattern to push myself to make a style of pants I wouldn't normally wear, and right now I am happy with the one pair of pants.  I am very pleased with the fit though, so I do think I will try other Patrones patterns in the future.  I would recommend this pattern to others, but only if they either had experience sewing pants before, or if they had supplementary instructions from books, magazines, or the internet.  Especially if they want the waistband details like in the magazine, since I found those difficult to figure out, and decided to just leave them off in the end.

Conclusion:  I really like this pattern!  Though I don't know if I will be sewing this again anytime soon, I am pleased with the results from this pattern and it gives me confidence in sewing more Patrones patterns in the future.  It might not be my typical style, but I think these pants will see use in my wardrobe in the future since they are super comfortable.  Now the only thing I need - some nice brown heels to go with these pants!


  1. Interesting pants! Well done on interpreting the instructions - they look really nice.

  2. Very nice! I especially like the pleat at the front. And great fly front!!

  3. These are really great on you! Absolutely they should count!

  4. These look great, and how brilliant to find that Patrones pants are practically drafted for you. Now, get some heels on before you wreck your perfectly sewn hems!!

  5. These look great! I like the voluminous leg, I think there's still room for that in the skinny-dominated world.