Dance Skating - The Italian Foxtrot

It occurs to me that I have been over-posting about sewing and sewing related issues and mostly ignoring the skating side of things.  I anticipate this will change in the near future as the summer competitive season heats up with regionals and nationals.  But in any case, I thought it was high time to start posting something about the skating side of things.

I thought I would start by looking at what I consider to be one of the most beautiful dances performed in roller skating competition, the Italian Foxtrot.  As far as I am aware, this dance is not used in ice skating, at least not at the Senior level.  In roller dance skating at the Junior World Class and Senior World Class levels two compulsory dances are performed.  In team dance there are also Original Dance and Free Dance portions of the competition, where in solo dance there is only a Free Dance in addition to the compulsories.  This format is similar to how competitions used to be held in ice dance, although in recent years they would have two dances for a season and perform only one at each competition.  This year was the first year since the introduction of ice dance that compulsories haven't been performed - they have since gone to a "Short Dance" where part of a compulsory must be included into an original dance type program.  Since The Powers That Be of roller skating tend to look at what the ISU is doing and follow their lead, let us all take a moment to pray to the skating gods that such a travesty never occurs in roller dance skating.

*Moment of silent prayer*

One can only hope that since we still include compulsory figures as a competitive event, compulsory dance will remain as well.

Alright, on to the fun stuff.  The ladies steps of the Italian Foxtrot will be performed this year as one of the Senior Solo compulsory dances.  It was also performed in the 2008-2009 season in team dance.  Fun fact: this dance along with the Starlight Waltz was used in the 2007-2008 season, which was the first competitive season of Senior Solo Dance at the World Championships.  While the Junior World Class solo skaters did go to worlds when the event was first created in 2007, the first season of Senior Solo was done as a trial event, and participants did not qualify or participate at the World Championships.  Both Junior and Senior solo events were skated as co-ed until the senior event was split into events for men and women in 2009.  Junior is still skated co-ed.

Also, this is the first season (2010-2011) that skaters can compete in both team and solo events.  I am undecided if this is a good thing or a bad thing.  While the skaters participating in these events are the best in the world, with team already having three components, adding two additional compulsories and an individual free dance may detract from the quality of each component as practice time will have to be further divided to allow for these new events.  On the other hand, I do agree that we need to promote team dance at the world level, and allowing skaters to participate in both events may accomplish this.  However, I really feel that the overall effect will be to allow the team skaters to qualify in multiple dance events and it will drastically reduce the number of spots available to very talented skaters who are unable to find suitable dance partners, as there are only two individual spots available in Junior, and two individual spots for each gender in senior, but there are three spots open for teams.  Last year there were only five senior dance teams at worlds, but there were at least 10 male solo dance skaters, so clearly there is potential for more teams to be created, but I don't know if allowing skaters to participate in both events is the best way to achieve this.

In any case, watching the event should be fun since so many of the top dance skaters participate in this event.

Sewing Nightmares

Sewing people of the internets - do you ever have actual nightmares about sewing?  I did for the first time a few nights ago.  I dreamed that I had used one of my recent stash accumulations for a really ugly skirt.  It looked like I was wearing a box on my hips.  The seams were crooked, the hem was uneven and it didn't look good at all.  I don't even think it closed properly.  I woke up in a panic, but I was quite please to realize that my recently acquired $2/yard corduroy is in fact not a horribly boxy ill-fitting skirt and is still in raw form waiting to be made into a nice lightweight jacket.  I was so relieved I promptly fell back asleep.  Sweet sewing dreams y'all!

Making Plans for "Cathy's Living the Dream Fantasy Sew Along"

As I am relatively new to sewing (and much newer to blogging about sewing) I have not, as of yet, participated in an online sew along.  I would desperately love to participate in The Male Pattern Boldness Jeans sew along, but the timing is just not so good.  I have too many other things that have to happen in May and June, and so adding another project probably isn't wise.  However, today, happily, Peter has announced something even more fabulous than jeans - the proposed "Cathy's Living the Dream Fantasy Sew Along."

So while summer isn't exactly the best time for me to be participating in a sew along either, by then my current projects should be finished (read: they better the heck be done because I need to wear them!), so putting off some of the practicality of making shirts and pants and useful things could be accommodated.  In the spirit of Peter's motto ("build the dress and the event will happen") I have most decidedly been living with the motto "buy the $0.99 pattern and you will eventually use it."  That, and I worry about things going out of print.  Especially costumes, since their lifespan seems to run with the popularity of current movie releases.  So, as you may have guessed, I already have too many pattern options from which to choose, and I may need some help deciding.  Let's look at the options, shall we?

First, some of the more practical options:

Butterick 4657

Vogue 2880

These both could be worn to weddings and other such events that are likely to occur at some point in the future.  These patterns are already quite embellished, so I don't think I would be doing too much to add or change them.  I would probably use different colors, as I am not really a pink girl.  I love these, but I honestly think I will actually use them in the future to create dresses for events I may be going to, so I don't really know how well these would fit in with the whole goal of creating the fantasy design that would never normally be worn in real life.

Next, a few more prospects, but a little more towards the impractical side of things:

Butterick 4918

Vogue 2890

Vogue 2929

These again I would probably not add or embellish much beyond what is already used in the pattern - I appreciate the simplicity of the designs and feel like adding more would destroy the overall look.  But I would, of course, try to find and use as fabulous a fabric as possible.  I like the Butterick design because it feels very Cathy - 50's retro vibe but absolutely fabulous.  For that design I would make the pink one with the extra shawl bit - just to add to the fantasy of it all.

Now, of course we get to the really fantastical possibilities:

Simplicity 4092

McCall's 5321

McCall's 6097

Vogue 7733

Simplicity 5006

So, obviously, these patterns are a little more "costume."  But, I think I would make some changes to all of these to make them more fantastically fabulous gown and less movie costume reproduction.  For example - the first Simplicity look I would totally go insane with embellishment on the stomacher - lace, beading, rhinestones, etc. etc.  For the first McCall's (wedding-ish) dress - I would very much plan on playing with the skirt, trying to make it more Belle from Beauty and the Beast, and less David's Bridal.  There would also be much more going on with the top (perhaps some fabric around the shoulders, some flowers?  Sequins?  Rhinestones?).  The second McCall's option (6097) I would either make the entire dress or probably just use the skirt and then use the Vogue 7733 (white or black patterns) for the top.  The McCall's top and the Vogue top are similar, but the Vogue one laces in the front, which could be fun.  For any of these options (as well as the Butterick 4918) I would probably also need to make petticoats (and possibly bum rolls and other things) so that the skirt will sit right and have the correct amount of volume.  In any case, with anything I pick for this sew along there is much sewing to be done.

Belle, in Fantasmic!  Is there anything so fantastical?

So you see, dear readers, I have a conundrum.  If I am going to put in the effort, should I go short and sassy?  Make something that has a definite chance of being worn in the near future?  Or is that cheating, and going around the entire purpose of the fantasy sew along?  Should I make something retro in honor of Cathy?  Or perhaps I should go with something full length but very modern?  Or should I go guns blazing, no holds barred for the full on fantastical costume of insanity and awesomeness?  Right now, looking at my options, I know which way I am leaning, but hopefully there will be some comments from the peanut gallery...

In any case, just by reading through books and the internet I feel I am far more prepared to create something amazing and have it actually look good than I was when I made the costumes shown previously on my blog.  I think this sew along may be just the chance for me to do that, so I really am excited and do intend to do it.  And even though the official name and date hasn't even been announced yet, I can't help but be excited and plan ahead.

And, fellow sewers, hopefully, maybe you want to plan ahead too?  Just as a heads up Jo-Ann sales on Simplicity patterns for $1.99 Thursday April 21-Saturday April 23.  Also, buy one get one on buttons!  So if you want to participate, but don't stock up on crazy patterns like I do, this might be a good time to pick a few up on the cheaps.

Burda Italia - History of Fashion

Perhaps I am behind the times, but the Burda Italian website has started a "Fashion History" series on their website.  It currently has entries for 1956/1957, 1966, and 1975.  Hopefully the links will actually go to the Google-translated pages.  Clicking on the "Foto-Show" links take you to the pattern pictures.  In any case, my relationship with Burda is quite new and mostly untested (so far I have made the 02-2011-106 shirt from the magazine, but have plans for more Burda pattern usage in the near future), so I don't really have the perspective on the company that many long-time Burda users have.  However, looking at the retro-images, I can see why people seem to be, in general, fed up with the recent offerings from the pattern company.

Let me say right out that I am most decidedly NOT a vintage pattern collector/lover/snob.  I have a few vintage pattern re-prints from the Big4, but no actual legitimate vintage patterns.  And even then most of those were acquired with the plan to make them for someone else.  However, the images from the 1956/1957 Burda history of fashion might change that.

Love the details on the jacket!

Fabulous use of pleating.

Fur lined collars...

More details on the top and the skirt.

His & Hers coats - and I thought that was just a modern invention.  And I feel like I see many people wearing these sorts of coats today.  Perhaps this design was ahead of it's time.

Love this wedding gown.  It is so elegant.

Another wow wedding dress. Love how it can be strapless or have lace sleeves with a Grace Kelly feel.

As a side note, my favorite new Italian phase is "molto snob" which google translates as "very snobby."  I don't know why, but I find it very funny that they would use this to describe the cut of 1950's Christian Dior inspired "H-line" silhouette.

The styles from 1966 are less detailed, as was fitting with the styles of the time, but they still manage to have at least one interesting detail that elevates the design.

The poofy sleeve and swishy skirt are not like many of the other dresses featured, but still simple style lines.

Simple coat.  In-seam pockets are a nice detail.

Liking the black dress.

Ok, I wouldn't wear this, but the ruffle on the skirt is still interesting.  With the hair it makes me think of the film Apollo 13.

Liking the lace top.  Also liking the scalloped edges.

The 60's wedding dress.  Not loving it like the 50s designs, but the neckline details and simple shape are nice.

Typical silhouette but with interesting gathers at the bust and hips.

And then, of course there are the designs from 1975.  Well, I suppose it is better than 1985....

Short skirts in the 70s.  Actually, if Burda made this pattern today, I think people would make it.

Very simple coat.  Not my favorite, but like the use of color.

Dresses are still simple but now with more A-line skirts than those of the 60s.

Ah, the shirt dress.  Burda loves a good shirt dress.

Crazy colors.  Burda still likes crazy colors today.

Actually, I do like the neckline.  Just hate the colors and prints.

This screams 1970s vintage Barbie dress to me.

Actually cute.  I would make this if the pattern were printed in a Burda magazine today.

Had to include the menswear.  To think my dad dressed like this.... sigh.

And the ladies of course couldn't leave the bell-bottoms to the guys.

More blue bell bottoms.

Sparkly purple - yes, disco is on the way in.

This reminds me of my mother's wedding dress.

Ummmm, what?  Did people actually dress like this during the 70s?  Is this a costume?  I am confused.

Of course, when you compare this with some of Burda's more recent offerings, such as this...

 and this....

and this...

well, you sort of have to wonder what and if Burda stylists are thinking.  While the 1966 and 1975 shapes are fairly simple, especially when compared to the 1950s designs, they are far more detailed and complex than the 2011 Burda offerings.  Granted, these are just a few of the designs from Burda, and they do have many more fitted offerings in their magazine, but somehow I can't help but wonder if in the future we will think of 2011 as the year of the potato sack.

Pattern Review: Simplicity 4940

As promised, a pattern review for my "Aes Sedai" dresses.  Luckily, since the movie release of Lord of the Rings, fantasy inspired costume patterns are not too difficult to come by.  Sadly, all of the shapes are similar to those worn by Arwen and Eowyn.  So I decided to make two dresses: one directly from the pattern, and one where I would alter the sleeves a bit so the look wasn't quite so LotR or evil queen.

Simplicity 4940

Pattern Description: Fantasy costume in Lord of the Rings style with long sleeves.

Pattern Sizes: Available (10-18) and (20-26).  I cut a size 16 top/18 bottom for view A, but this was before I knew much of anything about altering/fitting commercial patterns.  I have also lost weight since I first made this, so if I were to make it again, I would cut a size 12 on top grade out to a size 16 for the skirt and do a FBA (full bust adjustment) and other pattern adjustments.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope when you were done sewing with it? Yes, I thought my first costume looked very similar to view A, since I followed the pattern exactly.  My second dress was a bit different since I made my own sleeves.  This was during my "Interfacing, what is that and who needs it?" phase of learning to sew, so my collar is a bit more droopy than the one in the picture.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes, the instructions were quite simple except for the collar.  I found that sort of confusing/difficult, but I did figure it out by going slowly and doing everything exactly step-by-step from the instructions.


What did particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  The princess seams made it easy to adjust the pattern to fit, even if you don't really know anything about fitting patterns.  Also, it will look good on many body types because you can use the seams to get a nice fit to the body.  I like the overall style of the dress and the sleeves are so fun and pretty!

Fabric used: My first costume used polyester brocade and the second I used some sort of soft flowy polyester for the skirt and a poly brocade for the top.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:   The first time I made view A with no alterations.  The second time I changed the sleeves, made the view B neckline, and sewed the bodice directly onto the skirt.


Would you sew it again?  Would you recommend it to others?  I would highly recommend this pattern because it so pretty and easy to make.  I would like to sew it again, using some of the different bodice and sleeve options, and make more pattern adjustments, now that I know more about sewing pattern sizing and necessary adjustments.

Conclusion:  Great pattern!  Love the look, the sleeves, and the ease for making it.  It was one of the first things I made after learning to sew, so overall I think the pattern is very easy for beginners, but does offer enough of a challenge (with the collar, for example) that it isn't completely boring to make.  Also, the results are so pretty!

Ok, now for some pictures!  The dresses don't look the best because (1) they are now too big for both me and my dress form and (2) there is some decidedly sloppy sewing going on here.  I would love to re-do these, and maybe will think about it after I finish some projects that I want/need to finish before the end of summer.

My first dress - view A.  It is far too big around the shoulders and waist now.

Fabric close-up.  It is really a lovely dark blue/black mixture, but sadly camera shy.

My sleeve with lining.  I also added a black rope trim.

The back.  Love the drape of the sleeve.  Not loving the exposed wonky zipper.  That needs to change.

For this dress I would like to: replace the zipper with an invisible zip, make the top smaller with an FBA, possibly change the collar to a contrasting fabric so it stand out more.  Happily, since I have been dropping sizes and not gaining them, there should be enough fabric in this gown for me to make the changes I want to make.

My second dress was very similar, but with some design changes.

Love the color on this dress!

I like that this dress is more soft and floaty whereas the first was more structured.  The sleeves are more poofy and romantic, and the neckline is much softer as well (using view B).  I sewed the bodice on as part of the dress, instead of having a separate piece as used by the pattern.  I love the sleeves, colors, and trim on this dress more than on the first one, but this dress needs a lot more work in the upgrades department.

Pretty brocade shows bad stitching.

I love the brocade I used for the top, but, being inexperienced, I never thought to underline it, and it hasn't held it's stitches well over time, despite decided lack of use.  So before I really wear this one out on the town, the bodice needs some major re-doing.  Underlining is a must, as is size changes and alterations.  I think the underling would also fix the puckering on the stitches.  You can see how incredibly wide the shoulders look - they are falling off the dress form.  Also the skirt has some very messy sewing near the front - that also needs to be fixed.

The back.

I do think this was a better zipper insertion, but I would also like to go for an invisible zip on this dress.  Eventually I would like to make more realistic costumes without zippers (using more historical type closures) but I don't think I have the need or experience to do that when I re-work these costumes.  Also - what is with that back skirt seam?  I don't know why I didn't re-do that at the time because wow it is racking something awful.

Brocade pattern and too big shoulders.

Overall, I love my fabric choices, but I am not super pleased with my results in hindsight.  I wouldn't exactly call them "successes" as of yet, but they did make me start thinking about fit and how I could make things better.  Really, the fact that these costumes weren't perfect was probably a good thing, because otherwise I would still not know or care that patterns are sized for B cups, about upper bust/full bust measurements, or anything about pattern adjustments other than basic lengthen/shorten lines.  This was when I first started thinking about fit and technique and all sorts of things that I had avoided with my first projects (the loose Yuko robe and skating costumes).  So I suppose, in a sense, that these projects were useful to me if not exactly successful.

I would like for these gowns to be wearable, and so I think they will get some major alterations/re-working in the future, but, like my Yuko costume, are not exactly a priority at the moment.  I would love to make this costume again, perhaps with the gathered sleeve in some sort of a deep blue shantung and then make some sort of bodice/corset similar to view B but with more structure (perhaps in a textured velvet?  I am liking this idea).  Perhaps closer to Halloween/October I might be feeling the costume re-vamps, but right now I am more interested in increasing my wardrobe options for summer.